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MR. MUSTARD

The Brooklyn Paper
It was love at first sight for Arnaud Gibersztajn, the owner of Park Slope’s Moutarde, a classic French bistro that opened in February. Gibersztajn, an Upper East Sider who spent 15 years behind the stove of such Manhattan French restaurants as Le Bilboquet added, "Park Slope is totally the opposite of the Upper East Side. There’s a real community here."

The community has found Gibersztajn’s menu, with its emphasis on bistro classics "enhanced with mustard," intriguing. (Moutarde is "mustard" in French.) All the mustards are house-made with "whatever flavors we can think of: parsley, rum, raspberries, herbs," said Gibersztajn. "We even use it to dip bread in at the table." Good news for diners who can’t look at another little saucer of olive oil.

The decor is bistro circa 1930s, with big, gilt-edged mirrors, vintage light fixtures, cushy banquettes, the ubiquitous zinc bar and tiled floor. For those who find few options in the Slope for croissant and cafe au lait, be patient - weekday breakfast is coming soon.

Moutarde (239 Fifth Ave. at Carroll Street) accepts Visa and MasterCard. Entrees: $13-$16. For reservations, call (718) 623-3600.


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