The Brooklyn Paper: ROLLING IN DOUGH
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ROLLING IN DOUGH

By Tina Barry
The Brooklyn Paper

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On Smith Street you gotta have a gimmick.

In November, Alan Harding, along with partners (and brothers) Jim and Paul Mamary, opened their latest version of nostalgia-with-a-twist restaurants - LaRosa & Son, a mom-and-pop-styled pizza joint with better lighting at 98 Smith St.

The three, who also own Smith Street’s Patois, Union Street’s Schnack and the LaRosa-adjoining Pacifico, around the corner on Pacific Street, have one-upped the doughy neighborhood pies with thin-crust versions, and added sundried tomatoes, arugula and fresh basil to the usual pepper, anchovy and mushroom topping roundup. Plain, pepperoni and red onion with zucchini slices are pictured at left.

And, yes, you can buy it by the slice.

Diners can sit at the red-and-white checkered, cloth-covered tables, under the vintage soda pop signs and old Life magazine photos while they eat retro favorites like calzones, chicken cacciatore and eggplant parmigiana.

There’s cheese ravioli on the menu, too, but Harding and company have dressed it up for the locals with roasted garlic and portobello mushrooms. One more thing they have that you won’t find in the old neighborhood: a wine list and a well-stocked bar.

So Schnack on that!

LaRosa & Son (on Smith Street between Atlantic Avenue and Pacific Street in Boerum Hill) accepts cash only. Entrees: $8.75-$10.50. Lunch and dinner are served seven days a week. For more information, call (718) 935-0545.

©2004 Community Newspaper Group


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