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TAKE A CHANCE

The Brooklyn Paper

You’re in the mood for Chinese and the wife wants French?

Not a problem.

The Smith Street restaurant Chance surprisingly offers both cuisines; the name is a fusion of the words "China" and "France." For indecisive types, chef James Snaith (pictured, left) dishes out a hybrid of both at the sleek restaurant that opened in June.

On the Chinese side, Snaith, who cooked in France and owned a bistro, Tal Mediterranean Fusion in Marin County, Calif., mixes sauteed scallops with vegetables and a touch of brandy, and on Saturdays and Sundays there’s traditional dim sum all day. Bouillabaisse, the spicy fish stew, is one dish that represents France, while the snow peas, carrots, Chinese broccoli and eggplant that get a quick sizzle in the wok before they’re tossed in truffle oil and mixed with soba noodles represent a fusion of Chinese and French cuisines.

Owner Ken Li set his modern concept in an appropriate setting: stainless-steel tables and bar make a clean backdrop for Chinese lanterns, a curved ceiling and, says manager Shane Kessler, a "mesmerizing bubble motif backdrop" behind the bar.

Chance (223 Smith St. at Butler Street in Boerum Hill) accepts American Express, MasterCard and Visa. Entrees: $15-$20. The restaurant is open for dinner every night. Dim sum is offered from 10 am until closing on Saturdays and Sundays. For reservations, call (718) 242-1515.

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