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GIRLS, GIRLS, GIRLS

By Tina Barry
The Brooklyn Paper
The Brooklyn Papers / Gregory Cross

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It’s a woman’s world at the new Jolie Restaurant on Atlantic Avenue. The name of the cafe, which opened Oct. 27, means "pretty" in French, and pretty it is.

The cafe’s neighbor, Axelle Galleries, has supplied an exhibition of Les femmes jolies, who frolic on paintings, prints and photos on the warm ocher walls. Below the babes are Valentine-colored suede banquettes softly lit with modern chandeliers.

The girls may lure customers in, but it is chef Michel Pombet’s French menu that will seduce them. Pombet, formerly of the celebrated DeMarchelier in Manhattan, offers winter warmers like a creamy oxtail terrine with cornichons and onion compote; sweet breads champagne (center) with sauteed spinach and potatoes; and whole grilled dorade (a mild, fresh water fish) with sauteed endive and fennel.

In keeping with the lusty and lush theme, Pombet flambes crepes Suzette with brandy; layers tart and sweet autumn apples atop a buttery crust for his rustic house-made tarte Tatin; and fills profiteroles (puffs of tender pastry) with cream before drizzling the dessert with bittersweet chocolate. You’ll want to sit in a dark corner while you eat it.

Jolie Restaurant (320 Atlantic Ave. between Hoyt and Smith streets in Boerum Hill) accepts American Express. Entrees: $12-$20. The restaurant serves lunch and dinner daily. For reservations, call (718) 488-0777.

©2004 Community Newspaper Group


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