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TAKE IT SLOW

By Tina Barry
The Brooklyn Paper

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There’s nothing more satisfying on a cold night than sitting beside a fireplace, listening to the logs crackle and watching the embers fly. Add a dinner made with organic ingredients and cooked slowly, and you have one blissful evening. Such an experience is the aim of David and Laura Shea, whose restaurant Applewood opened in Park Slope in September.

The Sheas - she’s the front of the house presence; he’s the chef - are disciples of the "Slow Food" movement, whose followers believe in bringing back the pleasure of cooking simple ingredients with care, and taking the time to enjoy it.

The Sheas buy their provisions from small, local farms and nearby fisheries, producing such dishes as cauliflower gratin with whole-grain mustard and baguette crouton topping; and braised Berkshire pork belly with caramelized apples and apple cider glaze. At Applewood, grilled loin of venison with roasted sweet potatoes are partnered with a saute of endive and Brussels sprouts and served with brandied cherry sauce.

For dessert, pastry chef Michael Hyman offers buttermilk panna cotta (an Italian custard) with orange-caramel sauce, and a warm ginger-infused pear soup topped with molasses ice cream.

Get to Applewood soon, but please, don’t rush.

Applewood (501 11th St. at Seventh Avenue in Park Slope) accepts American Express, Discover, MasterCard and Visa. Entrees: $18-$25. The restaurant serves lunch and dinner Tuesdays through Sundays. Brunch is offered on Sundays from 10 am­3 pm. For reservations, call (718) 768-2044.

©2005 Community Newspaper Group


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