The Brooklyn Papers / Jori Klein

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Not too far from the Red Hook cocoa port, a team of sugar-loving business partners, including Matt Lewis of Manhattan’s Chocolate Bar (pictured above with Rafi Avramovitz, center, and Renato Poliafito, right), have opened Baked, a sleek little cafe with an emphasis on cake.

Coconut, carrot, chocolate and lemon layer cakes line the counter, along with specialties like Red Hook red velvet - topped with cinnamon butter cream and candied Red Hots - and the lard-laced Chocolate Chubby, which looks like a king-size Hostess cupcake.

Many of the cakes at the bakery-cafe, which opened Jan. 11, are inspired by recipes found in vintage cookbooks, but with less sugar, says co-owner Poliafito, thereby making the other flavors more pronounced. The result is a subtle, not-too-sweet cake with a fluffy texture.

Muffins, scones and other items are available for breakfast. The lunch menu, just launched, includes a selection of salads, soups and sandwiches.

It’s too early to tell if Baked will win over any longshoremen - the modern-looking cafe, with knotty blonde-wood walls, an eclectic soundtrack and retro light fixtures has a distinctly hipster vibe - but friendly service and a consistently good cup of Joe (the house blend is made exclusively for Baked by Park Slope’s Gorilla Coffee) is sure to attract a solid fan base.

Baked (359 Van Brunt St. between Wolcott and Dikeman streets), accepts American Express, MasterCard and Visa. Cakes are $4 a slice; 8-inch cakes start at $20. For information, call (718) 222-0345 or visit www.bakednyc.com.

©2005 Community Newspaper Group