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CASPER IS REBORN

By Tina Barry
The Brooklyn Paper
The Brooklyn Papers / Greg Mango

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While the name Melt may make you think "coffee shop," this new Park Slope restaurant is anything but.

"[Melt is] meant to evoke a bringing together or melting of ideas, flavors and ingredients in a stylish environment that is approachable and affordable," explained the eatery’s director of operations, Cenk Fikri.

To accomplish that goal, Cenk and Melt’s owner, Muguette Siem A Sjoe, transformed the site of Sjoe’s old Casper Jones Cafe with a chocolate-and-white color scheme; had a long, curving shelf installed behind the bar; and lined the room with round, white wooden tables.

"The room is modern but very warm," says Cenk.

The menu, developed by chef Brian Bunger - formerly of the Park Avenue Cafe in Manhattan - features sliced Berkshire pork tenderloin drizzled with a port wine reduction, accompanied by sauteed spinach and sweet corn polenta (pictured). The wine list boasts hard-to-find bottles from smaller producers that can be ordered by the glass for $5 to $9.

On Tuesday evenings, Bunger gets the night off, and a chef working in a different style - Japanese one week, Mediterranean the next - steps in and serves a five-course, prix fixe tasting menu at an unbeatable $20. (Reservations are strongly recommended for these dinners.)

No wonder the house cocktail - a mix of champagne, honey vodka, pear, mint and fresh ginger - is called the "Joie de Vivre."

Melt (440 Bergen St. between Fifth and Sixth avenues) accepts MasterCard and Visa. Entrees: $14-$23. The restaurant serves lunch and dinner daily and brunch on weekends, from 11 am to 4 pm. For reservations, call (718) 230-5925.

©2005 Community Newspaper Group


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