The Brooklyn Papers / Tom Callan

Temptation island: The signature dessert platter at Park Slope's Black Pearl restaurant features an apple tart, creme brulee and chocolate souffle.

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In November, Bob Chobor opened Black Pearl in a former turn-of-the-century firehouse on Union Street. It’s a first-time venture into the restaurant world, and he’s made some smart choices.

The first is realizing that while the area is rich in restaurants, it lacks an upscale place with a diverse menu that is suitable for all ages and every occasion - without edging into "family-style" dining (otherwise known as a lot of mediocre stuff that your kids will like and you won’t).

Black Pearl, which is not affiliated with the recently closed eatery of the same name in Manhattan, offers a handsome setting that is comfortable for someone who wants a drink or a bite at the bar, and suits the needs of small and larger parties looking for a relaxed yet special occasion setting for a meal.

Along one side of the golden room is a long, dramatically lit mahogany bar. There’s a wood-burning oven in the rear of the spacious dining area where a "pizzaiolo" turns out nicely charred pies. "Chandeliers," made from long, curved pieces of rough-hewn wood, add a rustic note to the surroundings. If you sit at one of the roomy, cocoa leather booths, placed on a raised tier, you’ll have an ideal spot to watch the goings on about the room.

Alfredo Duarte (formerly of Da Silvano and Serafina in Manhattan) is the executive chef. Duarte’s extensive menu leans toward Italy with enough entrees to satisfy a yen for an American-style meal. He aims for big flavors, with ample servings dramatically arranged on huge plates.

The menu could be edited down somewhat, because dishes like "spicy chicken chipotle" over pasta verges on Bennigan’s territory. Also, some of the dishes wouldn’t suffer with fewer ingredients; and the plating could be less showy. But these are minor issues when everything that emerges from the kitchen is vibrantly seasoned and carefully cooked.

We were wowed by the play of textures and temperatures in the yellow fin tuna, one of the dishes in the "small plates" roundup. The raw fish is sliced so thin, it’s almost sheer, and its black pepper-crusted edge contrasts with the delicate flesh. A tiny bundle of crisp watercress, dressed in a bright wasabi and ginger dressing, adds a note of heat, and slices of creamy avocado lend a lush, buttery edge to the works.

Two small crab cakes are marred by too much chopped red pepper that over sweetens the fish. But an enormous scallop with brittle, seared edges meets its match when paired with "mache" (also known as field salad or lamb’s lettuce), lightly dressed in citrus vinaigrette with a touch of sweetness.

Tender chunks of grilled calamari, accompanied by cherry tomato halves, share the perfume of the wood smoke. The fish is served over a salad of mixed greens and radicchio, slivers of grilled red peppers and slices of avocado. Balsamic vinaigrette unifies the ingredients.

There’s only one flaw in an otherwise well-executed entree of housemade ravioli: a heavy hand with the sauces. But when the sauces are as good as these, it’s a trivial complaint. One of the ravioli is filled with lobster meat, and the light, wine-tinged cream sauce that coats it adds to the pasta’s lushness. Nearly transparent sheets of pasta, cut into a heart-shape, held a creamy, spinach-flecked center and was complemented with a sunny tomato-vodka sauce; a fresh tomato and basil topping crowned plump bundles of pasta with a center of earthy wild mushrooms.

The oven-baked sea bass fillet is a showstopper. Duarte wraps the fish in a layer of thin potato slices, sears it until its coating is crisp and brown, then roasts the fish until its flesh is like silk. He serves the wildly delicious dish over cubes of fennel and leeks caramelized to a nutty, licorice-tinged hash. A Pinot Noir glaze swirled about the plate adds a nuance of sweetness that brings each element into focus. I’ve had similar versions of the dish, but Duarte’s is stunning.

The dessert menu, executed by Mario Palacios (also from Serafina), is a catch-all of classics. There’s a cheesecake, apple pie a la mode, a panacotta with raspberry coulis, sorbets, ice creams and, naturally, tiramisu.

Two renditions of traditional favorites are expertly prepared and worth a try: chocolate souffle, otherwise known as a molten chocolate cake, and a terrific creme brulee. The chocolate cake has a tart note that you find in expensive cocoa bars and sports a crisp surface and properly hot, viscous center. The brulee, baked in a heart-shaped dish, has a tinge of lemon and a surface that shatters when it’s touched with a spoon.

My only issue with the desserts concerns the plating: Too much powdered sugar sprinkled around the dish over-sweetens the sauce and fruit that accompany the main attraction.

Black Pearl (named for the rarity of the gem) is a jewel in the crown of the Park Slope dining scene. In a neighborhood crowded with good eateries, it’s special enough to stand out.

Black Pearl (833 Union St. between Sixth and Seventh avenues in Park Slope) accepts American Express, Discover, MasterCard and Visa. Entrees: $12-$28. The restaurant serves dinner daily. Brunch is available on weekends, from 11 am to 3:30 pm. For reservations, call (718) 857-2004.

©2006 The Brooklyn Paper