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SMELLS SO GOUDA

By Tina Barry
The Brooklyn Paper
The Brooklyn Papers / Tom Callan

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Delicious as they may be, little buttons of goat cheese, big chunks of bleu and runny triangles of Camembert share one trait: they’re smelly. Partners Michelle Pravda and Patrick Watson celebrate the odorous goods with Stinky Brooklyn, the shop they opened in June. The owners of the Smith Street store divide their stock according to its "stinky factor": "Not-so-stinky, stinky and supa-stinky," so the cheese freaks who linger before the cases know what they’re in for.

Culled from artisanal dairies large and small, the 100-plus varieties of fromage come from "as close as Poughkeepsie, New York, and as far as Tasmania," says Chris Remy, one of the managers. "You won’t find anything factory-made here. It’s all about quality."

With the cheese, you can pick up charcuterie, salads and signature dishes from the purveyor’s Smith Street neighbors. From Taku, there’s charred long bean salad and focaccia from Savoia. Add something sweet, like six different choices of fresh fudge from CarryMo Chocolate in Red Hook, and you’ve got yourself a picnic.

What about the wine? They’ve got that covered, too. On the label of each cheese’s wrapper, there’s a suggestion for a good partner and a nearby source to pick up a bottle: Smith & Vine, the wine shop the duo has owned for two years.

Stinky Brooklyn (261 Smith St. at DeGraw Street in Carroll Gardens) accepts American Express, MasterCard and Visa. Cheese: $1.50-$6 per quarter-pound. The shop is open Monday through Friday, from 11 am to 8 pm, and on weekends, from 10 am to 8 pm. For more information, call (718) 522-7425.

©2006 Community Newspaper Group

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