The Brooklyn Papers / Aaron Greenhood

Boite of course: Homemade pistachio mousse at Jean Jacques and Leslie Bernat's Provence en Boite on Smith Street.

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Some restaurateurs start off with a "slow" opening. They do little or no advertising, hoping that friends and a few intrepid diners will spread the word. This way, kinks can be worked out in the kitchen and among the waitstaff. By the time a story or two about the place is published, luring more diners to the eatery, whatever issues surfaced in the beginning will be resolved.

Chef Jean Jacques Bernat and his manager/wife Leslie didn’t have that luxury. Before they opened Provence en Boite on Smith Street in June, the couple were proprietors of a popular French bistro and patisserie of the same name in Bay Ridge. When they closed shop in 2004, the neighborhood missed Bernat’s slow-cooked, classic bistro fare and the kind of buttery pastry any self-respecting French baker would be proud to proffer.

Before the couple opened its new location, word leaked that the duo was about to re-establish their eatery, and, says Leslie, "We were packed from day one and it hasn’t let up since."

Diners, who tried the bistro in its early days, ran into a few problems. There were postings on Internet sites mentioning long waits for tables, stressed-out waitstaff, and food taking longer than it should to reach the table. But that was then. It’s been more than three months since they’ve begun, and whatever issues plagued the eatery in its early days appear to have gone poof!

On a recent Tuesday evening, the place was full and customers stopped in to purchase pastry and bread at the glass counter. While I wouldn’t say that dishes flew to the table, they did arrive in a timely manner. The waitstaff seemed relaxed and friendly, and - most important - the food is as good as it was in the former location.

Some patrons may find the cafe formulaic in its adherence to classic bistro touches: lace curtains and a pastry case filled with huge, cloud-like meringues. However, it is truly authentic in the Provencal, or country, style. When I visited the south of France last summer, all the eateries looked identical to Provence en Boite, right down to the paisley-printed tablecloths.

The decor may be a trifle contrived, but it is charming. And where else would you feel comfortable spooning up "gratinee a l’oignon," (rich onion soup with a crust of melted gruyere) or "escargots a la Provencal" (snails sauteed in butter with a garlic and red wine sauce)?

The small, focused menu contains few surprises, no disappointments and many high points.

Bernat is fond of "foie gras" (goose liver) and finds ways of balancing its unctuousness with acidity. He cuts the richness of crispy seared liver by placing it over a thin slice of sauteed green apple, then swirls a bit of blueberry sauce around the plate. Creme fraiche in the sauce lends a touch of acidity.

"Foie gras" makes another appearance in the "Le Jean-Jacques," a "burger" for lack of a better name. The idea for the dish came from a customer who raved to Bernat about chef Daniel Boulud’s "DB" burger served at DB Bistro Moderne in Manhattan. Boulud’s version is made with shredded short ribs, foie gras and black truffles.

"It was a joke at first," says Bernat, whose original spin-off was called the "JB" burger. After a few tries, he devised the opulent, wildly delicious version of the original that, at $25, is a relative bargain compared to Boulud’s $29 tab. Bernat begins with rib-eye, a deeply flavored, heavily marbled cut of beef. He pats the meat loosely around a layer of foie gras that melts as the burger grills, adding a buttery texture to the center.

The ingredients he chooses to top it with are inspired. Beneath the large patty is a mound of sweet caramelized red onions and sauteed cherry tomatoes, both adding a bright note to the works and even more juiciness. Warm sauerkraut and a slice of melting Brie top the meat.

Yes, it’s a lot going on. But the cabbage cuts through the richness and adds a needed sharp note while the cheese imparts a nutty, creamy quality. It’s a large, messy, homely concoction that drips juice onto freshly baked slices of brioche.

What it lacks in elegance though, it makes up in full force flavor. It’s luscious. In keeping with tradition, frites are served. Not the standard shoestring fries (I was slightly disappointed by their appearance), but they’re still thin and very tasty.

"Lapin buissonniere" (rabbit braised in white wine) is understated compared to the burger. The meat has the richness of dark chicken with silkier flesh, and the wine’s sharpness brightens the game. He serves the stew simply, as they do in Provence, with a mound of buttery mashed potatoes, a few slow-cooked pieces of leek and carrots and a splash of sauce.

A traditional "coquilles St-Jacques" (scallops served in its shell with a cream and cheese sauce) gets a light spin in Bernat’s kitchen. The mollusks are removed from the shells and seared until their edges are crispy. Instead of a heavy mornay sauce (made with cream and wine), he adds a touch of whisky to the pan and swirls it with creme fraiche. The result is a thin, silky puddle with a tart, boozy edge. He serves the seafood with a tangle of sauteed Greenmarket vegetables that change daily. A pile of crisp zucchini, oyster mushrooms and green beans made a worthy partner to the main attraction.

One of the pleasures of dining at Provence en Boite is knowing that at the conclusion of the meal you’ll be served a dessert that won’t disappoint. Bernat is as good a pastry chef as he is with the savory side of the menu. (He’s been on the faculty of the culinary arts program at the New York College of Technology on Jay Street for seven years.)

His tarts have crisp, buttery crusts and fillings that are light and not overly sweet. His crepes are a master class in how to do the dessert right. Order these thin, egg-y, silken pancakes with Grand Marnier. The liqueur is heady; bittersweet chocolate deepens the works; and orange zest adds texture and a bright citrus note.

It’s too bad for the Bay Ridge community that Provence en Boite has changed locales, but that’s what the F train is for.

Provence en Boite (263 Smith St. at DeGraw Street in Carroll Gardens) accepts American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard and Visa. Entrees: $16-$25. The restaurant is open Tuesday through Sunday for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Closed Mondays. For reservations, call (718) 797-0707.

©2006 The Brooklyn Paper