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JACQUES OF ALL TRADES

By Tina Barry
The Brooklyn Paper
The Brooklyn Papers / Aaron Greenhood

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In 2002, a restaurant opened in Williamsburg called La Brunette. It was short lived - but memorable - thanks to chef Jacques Gautier’s vibrant, French-Caribbean cooking. After he left the eatery, Gautier worked in South American kitchens and vineyards, as well as eateries closer to home like Zoe in SoHo and the Brick Oven Gallery in Williamsburg.

Now he has his own place in Park Slope: Palo Santo.

Open since August, Palo Santo (named for a South American evergreen referred to as "the tree of life") features a menu that is "eclectic Latin," says Gautier.

"We’re using mostly local, greenmarket ingredients - whatever is fresh at the market that day - as well as tropical imports," he says.

Several dishes on the small roundup change daily, so locals can drop in often and enjoy something new. Ceviche "misto," with shellfish, fresh lime juice and chilies, makes a great starter. An entree of roasted duck breast with mole sauce served with a duck-filled tamale is ideal on a cool evening; tamarind creme brulee finishes the meal in style.

As soon as the liquor license is granted, he’ll pour only South American wines.

The restaurant’s interior incorporates salvaged wood from neighborhood demolition that Gautier used to build chairs, tables and panel some of the walls. Continuing with the sourcing locally theme, he commissioned mosaic work, an intricate steel rail that frames an outdoor staircase, and a fountain by Brooklyn-based artisans.

Palo Santo (652 Union St. between Fourth and Fifth avenues in Park Slope) accepts cash only. Entrees: $15-$26. Breakfast and lunch is served Monday through Friday. Dinner is available Wednesday through Sunday. Brunch is served from 10 am to 4 pm on weekends. Closed Mondays. For more information, call (718) 636-6311.

©2006 Community Newspaper Group

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