The Brooklyn Papers / Daniel Krieger

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For Jeff Lederman’s second eatery, he envisioned an informal place where diners could stop in for a small plate of something delicious. While his first business, Nectar, is a juice bar and cafe on Court Street, he wanted his follow-up to boast an Italian wine list at reasonable prices, many by the glass. And when he imagined the room, he knew it had to be inviting, so patrons would be comfortable lingering.

In July, Lederman’s Bocca Lupo opened on a quiet residential corner of Cobble Hill. "Bocca Lupo" is Italian for "the mouth of the wolf" and dates back to Romulus and Remus, the creators of Rome.

Not exactly cozy?

"Wolves hold their young in their mouths; it’s a safe place," Lederman told GO Brooklyn.

The large corner spot he renovated is ringed with floor-to-ceiling glass windows. Inside are polished cement floors, a long cement table as well as rough-hewn wooden seating and doors. It does feel like a safe, relaxed spot to while away an hour or three.

Chef Ken Tufo [formerly of Veritas, DB Moderne and industry (food) in Manhattan] is in the kitchen turning out small plates of rustic Italian fare. There are platters of cured meats and cheese (ideal with a glass of wine); salads of arugula, spiced walnuts and gorgonzola; baby lamb chops (at right); and hearty panini like the sweet sausage, broccoli rabe, wild mushrooms and Taleggio cheese. Fifty Italian wines are available with 10 by the glass.

Bocca Lupo (391 Henry St. at Warren Street in Cobble Hill) accepts American Express, MasterCard and Visa. Small plates: $5-$13. The restaurant serves lunch and dinner daily. Brunch is available on the weekends, from 10:30 am to 4 pm. For more information, call (718) 243-2522.

©2006 Community Newspaper Group