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Gravy train

for The Brooklyn Paper

This weekend, “The L To The Mmmmm Train: Hipster Food, Puebla York & Wurst” will rumble through the borough, stopping along the way to sample some of the best ethnic eats in Brooklyn.

The culinary tour de force is sponsored by the Transit Museum and hosted by “gustatory sherpa” Todd Coleman, food editor at Saveur.

Brooklyn Bridge Realty

Using the train line as the narrative, Coleman’s tour will amble from Williamsburg to Bushwick and Ridgewood, stopping at places like a Sicilian dolceria whose cannolis have plied Brooklynites since the 1930s, and La Tortillería Mexicana Los Hermanos, a Mexican shop whose creamy “atoles” and “antojitos” are warm enough to keep you toasty until June.

Mindful of the borough’s changing landscape, Coleman tempers a visit to Von Westernhagen, a German operation since the 1960s, with a stop at hipster emporium, the Bedford Cheese Shop.

“I’ve curated the tour to include places I think are special. It might involve shopping, meeting the owner or seeing a demonstration,” said Coleman. But how to make it through the day with stomach lining and starting weight intact? “Pace yourself,” he says.

“The L to the Mmmmm Train: Hipster Food, Puebla York & Wurst” will start at 11 am on March 10. Tickets are $45, $40 for Museum members. For information call (718) 694-1867.

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