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What a pair!

for The Brooklyn Paper

What a pair!

When we first heard that the Brooklyn Wine Co., would soon release three new wines, we got excited. And then we got hungry. A good wine demands, shouts and practically gets down on its knees and begs to be married to a good cheese. So, in search of guidance, we made our way to Stinky Bklyn, the Smith Street gourmet shop, where manager Chris Remy proved to be an excellent guide.

For the big, bold Feliz Red — a blend of Lake County Zinfandel, Amador County Barbera and Syrah grapes, Remy recommended Lincolnshire Poacher, which Stinky sells for $19/pound. A raw milk cow’s cheese crafted in England’s Lincolnshire county, Poacher is a combination of Gruyere and cheddar. It’s an assertive cheese whose robust flavor won’t pale in the company of the red’s full, rich taste.

For the Feliz White — a combination of Sauvignon Blanc, Colombard and Verdelho grapes, Remy suggested Humboldt Fog, a beloved California goat cheese made by legend Mary Keehn. Sweet, tangy and creamy, Humboldt is characterized in part by its bloomy white rind and a line of edible ash that bisects its two layers. The cheese, which Stinky sells for $18/pound, has a distinctive, zesty bite that makes it an ideal companion for the wine, whose grapes are all known for their light, fruity aromas.

Remy chose La Sirena, a “slightly funky” raw milk sheep’s cheese from Spain, to pair with a Meritage wine that combines Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Those grapes’ high tannin levels bring out aromas of everything from chocolate to violets to pencil shavings — a perfect match for La Sirena’s own idiosyncratic flavor. Stinky sells it for $16.50/pound.

Stinky Bklyn (261 Smith St. at Degraw Street in Carroll Gardens) is open Monday through Friday from 11 am–8 pm and Saturday and Sunday from 10 am–8 pm. For information, call (718) 522-7425 or visit

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