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The Brooklyn Paper / Daniel Krieger

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Brooklyn Label might occupy a vintage space — the 150-year-old Astral Building on Franklin Street in Greenpoint — but the restaurant is thoroughly modern.

Though only open since January, the eatery has fast become an anchor on the bustling strip where new shops and cafes are opening weekly — so the wait for breakfast, which peaks at about 1 pm in these parts, can be a long one. “We serve 400 brunches a day on the weekends,” said chef and owner Cody Utzman — not an easy feat when you have only 42 seats inside and a small patio outside.

It’s no surprise that the early meals are so popular. The eggs — served in omelets or the popular “Chili Colorado” bowl — are farm fresh and organic; the challah used for the “Warsaw French Toast” (pictured) is baked locally; and the pastry comes from the Balthazar Bakery in Manhattan, known for its crisp, not-too-sweet goods.

Another big hit is the coffee — nominated for an award by Imbibe Magazine. Utzman uses Raven’s Brew beans, a roaster out of Washington. “We’re the only place in the area that carries their coffee and it’s great,” he added. The espresso, pulled by skilled baristas, is top of the line, too.

For those who wander in later in the day, there are shrimp po’ boys and “Tempeh Reubens” (marinated tempeh, Swiss cheese and homemade cabbage slaw on grilled rye bread), as well as big salads and soups. Right now, the dinner menu consists of specials like “fresh wild striped bass with English peas, garlic mashed potatoes and wild mushrooms,” but in two weeks, Utzman will launch the full dinner menu of “neighborhood café-type” dishes. And who knows what the line will be like then?

©2007 Community Newspaper Group