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Dining: Old timer

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With Gargiulo’s turning 100 this week, GO Brooklyn decided to judge how other venerable borough institutions are holding up. Here’s a look at 14 establishments, the year they opened, and if they’re better than ever or worse for the wear.

Gargiulo’s: 1907

Still packing them in and still serving up Southern Italian fare that’s a cut above your local red-sauce place. Old-world service and those amazing prom dresses make this a true attraction.

Peter Luger Steakhouse: 1887

Becoming better known for long lines of tourists rather than the porterhouse, which was, horrors!, gristly the last time we were there.

Nathan’s Famous: 1916

Getting up in price, but still the best, thanks to the snap of a natural sausage casing.

The Cyclone: 1927

Other rides do 360s or pull 6 Gs, but this wooden landmark still terrifies the hell out of you. Our advice: don’t eat before a ride.

Brooklyn Heights Promenade: 1950

This view hasn’t been the same since that day in September.

Brooklyn Bridge: 1883

A walk across the span is still one of the great treats of New York (as is the pizza on the Brooklyn side). Plus, it’s the fastest way from DUMBO to City Hall.

Ferdinando’s Focacceria: 1904

Still the best — and, let’s face it, only — panelle sandwich in the city. Also, try the squid ink pasta. As they say in Sicily, “Ottimo!”

Borough President Markowitz: 1945

He’s tanned, thin and ready to run for mayor, but recent run-ins with the press and local community boards make many question whether he can handle the city’s top job.

Junior’s cheesecake: 1950

Condos aren’t the only things going for record prices these days. A slice of the famous cheesecake at Junior’s now runs $5.75 and just isn’t worth it.

Prospect Park: 1867

It’s gone from gritty to great, and with summer nights upon us, we can’t imagine life without it.

The Gowanus Canal: 1869

Sludgie the whale couldn’t stomach it, but the Gowanus is one zoning change away from becoming the Nile of the new millennium.

The Williamsburgh Savings Bank Building: 1927

Renovations to this dowdy dental tower sure are taking forever, but with the rumor spreading that Oprah Winfrey is buying the penthouse, this one might be worth the wait.

Grimaldi’s: 1990

The pizza here is still great, but something — either the cash only/no slices rule or the tourists — has to go.

L&B Spumoni Gardens: 1939

The large outdoor patio is magical, but the pizza — closer to red sauce on Wonder Bread — has taken a nosedive.

©2007 The Brooklyn Paper