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Get baked

for The Brooklyn Paper

The revolving-door restaurant landscape on Brooklyn Height’s Henry Street is difficult for even the most devoted foodie to follow. With restaurants opening and closing about as fast as Joey Chestnut’s mouth, it’s hard to figure the key to finding success on the high-rent street.

Chris Fehlinger, owner of Oven, the latest spot to open on the strip, thinks the answer is simplicity. Oven focuses on specialty pizzas and an extensive wine list — over 180 bottles and more than 40 half-bottles — making what Fehlinger calls “a wonderful combination.”

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The thin-crust pizzas range from old-time favorites to the inventive and a bit out there — but all go well beyond the traditional Margherita pie. A chicken curry pizza is topped with cashews, green peppers, red onions and mozzarella, baked in a curry flavored tomato sauce and topped with a yogurt mint sauce. An eggplant pizza is topped with an assortment of cheeses and pine nuts, a surprisingly crunchy and complimentary combo. And there’s even a roasted asparagus pizza with Vermont goat cheese and oven-roasted Roma tomatoes, served on a creme fraiche base.

Fehlinger wanted to open a restaurant that could serve as both a weeknight spot for a quick meal and a destination for the weekend diner. While most pizzas are about $13, those looking to splurge can dish out $30 for the Kobe steak pizza drizzled with black truffle oil.

With a wide variety of wines to choose from, it’s best to get some help. Fehlinger has a “sommelier in training” on staff to help pair the perfect pizza and wine — though in this case trial and error doesn’t sound too bad.

Oven (60 Henry St., at Cranberry Street in Brooklyn Heights) accepts American Express, MasterCard and Visa. Lunch approximately $12. Dinner entrees approximately $16. The eatery is open Tuesday through Saturday 11:30 am–3 pm and 5:30–11pm and Sunday 5–10 pm. Subway: A/C to High St. or 2/3 to Clark St. For information, call (718) 468–6836 or visit www.ovenny.com.

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