Summer’s only half over, but Saeri Uyoo Park wants you to forget about grilled hot dogs.
Park, who opened the chic Korean restaurant Moim in June, has worked for famous chefs in tony kitchens from Cafe Grey in the Time-Warner Center to the Modern at MoMA — but Park Slope’s Moim is her very own. And the sophisticated Korean dishes served go way beyond classic Korean barbeque.
Unlike the ambitiously spiced, pan-Asian cuisine she prepared at Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Spice Market, in her own place Park sticks to Korean fare with a twist. There’s boozy “Hong Hap Jjim,” mussels glazed with rice wine and sojo — a rice-distilled drink similar to vodka. There are also small plates, including “kim chi mandu,” dumplings stuffed with the fiery, marinated cabbage called kimchi; as well as ground pork and tofu. Under the heading “fun and exotic chef recommended dishes” is black cod in a salty, spicy chili paste called “gochujang.” (The “Yook Hwe,” steak tartar with Asian pear and pine nuts, is pictured at right.)
The coolly elegant space can be seen through a unique awning made of wooden slats that cover the cafe’s large exterior window. Through the innovative screen, you can see a long room with simple tables and a wall of carved wooden panels that add textural interest. A serene garden in back invites lingering.
You can bring your own bottle until the liquor license is granted, with no corkage fee.
©2007 The Brooklyn Paper
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