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With the holidays fast approaching, there’s no drink more seasonal than eggnog. In “Imbibe!: From Absinthe Cocktail to Whiskey Smash, a Salute in Stories and Drinks to ‘Professor’ Jerry Thomas, Pioneer of the American Bar,” David Wondrich revisits Thomas’s 1887 recipe for “Baltimore Egg Nog” and finds that it still works rather well.

Not the type to deprive its readers of a bellyful of nog, GO Brooklyn is reprinting the recipe at right, which should make enough for a party of 15. (Now just remember us when you’re looking for friends to share a batch with.)

Baltimore Egg Nog

“Take the yellow of 16 eggs and 12 table-spoonfuls of pulverized loaf-sugar [3-4 ounces of superfine sugar], and beat them to the consistency of cream; to this add two-thirds of a nutmeg grated, and beat well together, then mix in half a pint of good brandy or Jamaica rum, and two wine-glasses [4 ounces] of Madeira wine. Have ready the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and beat them into the above-described mixture. When this is all done, stir in six pints of good rich milk. There is no heat used.”

Wondrich adds, “The 1887 edition of Thomas’s book suggests, correctly, that 10 eggs are enough. As for the spirits; I prefer to split the difference, going with five ounces of cognac and three ounces of rum. In 1862, there was a far greater variety of Madeiras available than there is today. I like a Bual in this.”

69th Regiment Punch

And if nog isn’t quite your cup of tea, Wondrich recommends Thomas’s “69th Regiment Punch,” which he describes as “a capital punch for a cold night.” The recipe for one serving calls for:

1 ounce of Irish whiskey
1 ounce of Scotch whiskey
1 teaspoon of sugar
1 piece of lemon
4 ounces of hot water.
Mix and serve in an “earthen mug.”

©2007 The Brooklyn Paper