February 24, 2007: Vol. 30, No. 8
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del.icio.usThe plates at Le Toukouleur, a new eatery in Bedford–Stuyvesant, have just as much color on them as the African murals that line the walls. The name of the restaurant translates to mean “all colors,” and is also the name of a tribe in Senegal.
Abdul Traore, the executive chef whose last gig was the French Embassy in New York, dishes out authentic plates of French-African food, with everything from red snapper to green olives coming out of the kitchen. Try the “thebou jenn” (pictured), which features a braised stuffed fish (usually snapper or sea bass) served with slow-cooked cabbage, carrots and eggplant.
In this modern space, alive with candlelight, murals and sculptures, Traore’s meals are “made the real African way,” he said. “I bake fish like tilapia or striped bass on wood so it absorbs the smoke, and I use authentic spices like ‘fefemougou’ [black pepper] to give the dishes a real taste of home.”
Until Le Toukouleur’s wine and beer license is granted, it’s fine to bring a bottle along. (There’s no corkage fee.) If you can’t make it to the liquor store though, don’t fret. You’ll be treated like an ambassador with a complimentary glass of vino with dinner, or you can opt for freshly squeezed ginger, mango or passion fruit juices.
Le Toukouleur (1160 Bedford Ave. at Quincy Street in Bedford–Stuyvesant) accepts American Express, Discover, MasterCard and Visa. Entrees: $14-$18. Dinner is served daily. Brunch is available on weekends from 10:30 am to 3:30 pm. Subway: G to Bedford–Nostrand, A, C to Nostrand Avenue. For information call (718) 622-0607.
©2007 The Brooklyn Paper
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