A burger by way of the islands

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In a town full of mediocre burgers, the discovery of a new favorite is somewhat akin to waiting less than an eternity for the G train — a rare occasion. Enter the Agoulou, the West Indian-style burger at three-week-old French-Guadeloupian eatery Kaz An Nou in Prospect Heights and a very possible new favorite.

The Agoulou ($11) is a burger worthy of your dreams. From your first encounter with it, the thing just sounds delicious, the name rolling off your tongue like the name of some wonderful, warm Caribbean beach. This may very well be one of the best burgers in the borough.

The version we had, topped with extra-fresh avocado salsa, Swiss and a fried egg (for an extra buck), had all the makings of a classic char-broiled burger — dark, mysterious and smoky, but with a subtle blend of Creole spices. All of this sits perfectly perched on a slightly sweet, house-made sesame bun that’s firm enough to stand up to the toppings without getting soggy.

Alternatively, opt instead for a burger topped with mushroom-scallion compote, goat cheese or Gouda — but whatever you do, the perfectly fried egg is a must.

Kaz An Nou is a teeny, homey little spot, run by Sebastien Aubert, a French-Guadeloupian of SoHo eatery Ivo & Lulu; and his wife, Michelle Lane, a home cook from Vermont.

Aubert, who says the name means “our house” in Creole, insists that the food is simple, “fine home cooking,” inspired by his mom’s home cookery.

Home cooking, maybe, if you also happen to be an incredible chef. Either way, dining at Kaz An Nou feels very much like visiting the couple’s home — Aubert chats up guests and works the tables while his wife mans the kitchen, both are charming and gracious. The restaurant has a short (but incredible) menu and is BYOB.

If only they’d make us breakfast in bed.

Kaz An Nou [53 Sixth Ave. between Dean and Bergen Streets in Prospect Heights, (718) 938-3235].

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Reader Feedback

Evone Forbes from fort greene says:
Can someone please stop these idiots from letting there dogs pee on my stairs.That is the best part I cant tell you how many times I have picked up crap In front of my house.I love dogs like anyone else but keep your dog crap in a bag and scooped up,not in front of my house.
Fort Greene Resident
Evone Forbes
April 18, 2010, 9:01 pm

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