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The restaurant on the bank of Newtown Creek is drawing suits and neighborhood hipsters

Manhattanites trek to post-industrial Greenpoint for a night out at Glasserie

for The Brooklyn Paper
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The most surprising thing about Glasserie does not have to do with the inventive menu or carefully designed dining room. No, the biggest stand-out when I arrived was how many suit-and-tie-wearing Manhattanites were eating dinner on a deserted stretch of Greenpoint waterfront. I figured that, whatever it was that brought these well-heeled types out to dine in a former glass factory, it must have been good.

There were Brooklynites too, at home in earth-toned dining room which feels like the cutting edge of borough design: low-lit, simple and understated. Wooden tables surround a central bar and servers have room to move quickly in the spacious hall.

Regardless of where you are coming from, you might start with flaky bread ($6), a small serving of buttery, griddled flatbread not much bigger than a pancake. It is best accompanied by a small bowl of thick labneh ($4) and a dollop of spiced tomato sauce, our first hint of chef Sara Kramer’s admiration for spice.

The dishes that follow, all carefully accented, please just as much. A bowl filled with tiny halves of baby eggplant, Asian pear, and pine nuts is streaked with chevre and well-seasoned with earthy spices ($14). Chef Kramer also has a thing for dairy, so yogurt, labneh and soft cheeses appear in many of the options. A dish of rice comes with yogurt, mushrooms and nettles ($18) and a chicken entree ($17) is served with almond milk.

The simpler dishes on the menu are clean, controlled and well balanced. A bowl of grilled tomatoes, sweet corn, peach, basil, and yogurt ($13) tasted as though it came straight from a backyard grill and screamed of summer in early autumn. Lamb is served raw as lamb tartar with olives, cucumber and glassy slates of crackers made from bulghur ($15). The lamb at first seemed like a gamey choice for raw meat, but its flavor is clean and surprisingly light, perfect for spooning onto the crispy crackers.

Greater complexity, still well-executed, was showcased in a bowl of scallops ($19) nestled in a hearty, deep broth. Sweet and gently cooked, they sat atop wax beans, pumpkin seeds and an unusual but pleasing roasted cantaloupe. Also surprising was a cloud-like cardamom semifreddo dessert that was a winner like the rest.

Glasserie is expensive for this side of the East River, but the thoughtfulness of the menu, the playfulness chef Kramer shows with spice and flavor, and the technique put into each and every dish makes Glasserie a welcome addition to the growing food scene on the Greenpoint waterfront.

[Glasserie, 95 Commercial St., between Box Street and Manhattan Ave. in Greenpoint. (718) 389–0640, www.glasserienyc.com]

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Reasonable discourse

diehipster from Smashing Sawyers says:
Oh my god! Enough with glorying these wannabe gritty beardos already. We get it! They like eating overpriced and overhyped food in abandoned factories. We FRIGGIN GET IT!!!
Oct. 2, 2013, 7:58 am
Ed from Bay Ridge says:
I don't need "playful" food.
Oct. 2, 2013, 10:57 am
Dave from Midwood says:
Ty give that poor fellow Die Hipster a break. He's too stupid to know hes not allowed to post his opinions in the comment section about the articles on this site and ESPECIALLY if you, the official hall monitor here doesnt share the same sentiment. When will he finally realize this Ty?
Oct. 2, 2013, 11:13 am
Pat I. from Brooklyn says:
18 dollars for rice. Yup.
Oct. 2, 2013, 11:54 am
ty from pps says:
Hahahahha! My comment was removed! Too funny.
Oct. 2, 2013, 1:58 pm
John Wasserman from Windsor Terrace says:
If you'll forgive my pointing out that at least people are able to order verbally, I would certainly appreciate it. I don't mind paying a little bit extra for that privilege. John Wasserman.
Oct. 2, 2013, 2:49 pm
SwampYankee from runined Brooklyn says:
So I was born in Brooklyn, wear a jacket and tie pretty much every day in Brooklyn....Perhaps you counted me as a "Manhattanite" because I wear a suit? And they had "real Brooklynites" at this restaurant? Do tell, what does a "real Brooklynites" wear that a "Manhattanite" doesn't that you can tell the difference? tell me Mr WILL LEVITT, do "real Brooklynites" not wear suits?
Oct. 2, 2013, 8:14 pm
judah Spechal from Bed Stuy says:
Be patient w/ the Journalist, they are still writing about Brooklyn from the "we discover" angle.

So forgive them, they are no different from those who once used the term "pionieers". Hmm ! Whatever happened to those, the "pionieers"?

Or maybe that's how Mnhattanites mintain their edge, because all you read about is "BK all Day"
Oct. 3, 2013, 9:33 am
JAZ from Hunting Redbeards says:
"There were Brooklynites too, at home in earth-toned dining room which feels like the cutting edge of borough design"

I'd like to correct the above portion of the article; there were BROOKLYN BASED transplants playing in kewl urban settings while dressing in the cliche uniform worn by the pseudo-creatives. If we bet on whether or not the state on their birth certificates said New York - $10 per person, I'd be walking out with a few hundred more than I came in with.
Oct. 4, 2013, 12:11 pm

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