Many diners might choose Corn Bread Cafe
in Park Slope for its southern fried chicken or barbecue pork
chops, but the warm, crumbly corn muffins alone are worth the
trip, arriving at your table as a complimentary preview of the
hospitality and delicious food to come.
Bettina Harris opened the Park Slope eatery at 434 Seventh Ave.
six years ago because she couldn’t find enough really good southern
soul food since she’d moved north from her native North Carolina.
Corn Bread Cafe not only fills this void with dishes like Carolina
fish and chips and crawfish etouffee, the restaurant also provides
hungry New Yorkers with hearty, country breakfasts and the kinds
of pastas that might have been produced had Scarlet O’Hara known
how to cook – and had she vacationed in Italy. Cornbread offers
angel hair with crawfish, andouille sausage, sweet peas, onion,
tomato and Cajun spices.
Harris says she comes from a family of good cooks, and this certainly
is evident in her menu.
Maryland crabcakes appear as both starters and main courses.
They’re fried to a crisp shell, but remain soft and succulent
inside, with a taste that’s not adulterated with lots of filler.
And they’re served on a bed of greens with a lemon wedge and
a spicy remoulade.
On this day, the soup du jour was mushroom barley. It was a little
thin, but what the soup lacked in density it made up with in
its clear, vigorous flavor.
Pecan catfish was flaky and fresh, fried with a thin coating
of crumbled pecans. Pork chops are fried and smothered with a
thick, creamy chicken sauce.
All main dishes are served with a choice of two side dishes from
a list that includes collard greens, black-eyed peas, coleslaw,
macaroni and cheese, cornbread and andouille sausage stuffing,
Cajun rice, candied yams, mashed potatoes with gravy, potato
salad, french fries and the vegetable of the day. We highly recommend
the candied yams and collard greens. The greens are sweet and
have none of the bitterness that can spoil the dish in less capable
hands.
Corn Bread also serves a variety of light dishes that might make
you give up fast food forever. Catfish, shrimp and chicken Po-Boys
are served on a baguette with coleslaw, tomato and sweet pickles,
accompanied by a choice of potato salad, coleslaw or fries. Or
you can sink your teeth into a lot more on the bun than the traditional
hamburger (although that’s available too), like barbecue chicken
cutlet, brisket of beef or Carolina chopped pork – or those delicious
crabcakes.
Much of Corn Bread’s fare is spicy, but have no fear, there are
plenty of beverages to soothe your palate. Most notable: lemonade,
A&W cream soda, Stewart’s root beer, and – guess what – chocolate
or vanilla egg creams.
Weekends, Corn Bread is a popular spot for brunch. Starters include
southern staples like hominy grits, and corn and okra fritters.
Main dishes range from grilled New York shell steak with eggs
to "The Southerner," a three-egg omelette with country
ham, bacon, sweet peppers, caramelized onions and cheddar cheese.
The atmosphere at Corn Bread is refreshingly casual and clean
– with polished wooden floors and tables, both of which look
like you could eat off them. There’s a mural on one wall that
pays tribute to New Orleans jazz and piped-in music worthy of
the artwork.
Even if you’re a big eater, you won’t leave Corn Bread Cafe hungry.
And if you don’t have a big appetite, arrive really hungry. Otherwise,
you might have to pass up their deliciously indulgent desserts
– like pecan pie or warm peach cobbler. Any dessert can be accompanied
with ice cream for a mere $1.95 extra.
Another treat is the price: the most expensive Po-Boy is $7.98,
and the Southerner three-egg omelette is $6.25.
Here in Brooklyn we may not have magnolia trees and honeysuckle,
and the standard address may be "yo," not "y’all,"
but thanks to Corn Bread Cafe, we do have cooking that will make
you think you’re south of the Mason-Dixon.
Corn Bread Cafe, 434 Seventh Ave. between
14th and 15th streets, accepts Visa, American Express, Discover
and MasterCard. The restaurant is open Monday through Thursday,
5 to 10 pm; Friday, 5 to 11 pm; Saturday, 11 am to 11 pm; and
Sunday, 11 am to 10 pm. Brunch is served Saturday and Sunday,
11 am to 3 pm. For more information, call (718) 768-3838. Average
entree: $13. www.cornbreadcafe.com
