Downtown Atlantic Restaurant and Bakery’s
owner and chef, Kurt Sippel, opened his restaurant in April among
the antique shops of Atlantic Avenue. A kindred spirit of those
who prize old-fashioned values, Sippel’s restaurant and menu
embrace yesterday’s ideals while exceeding modern expectations.
Downtown Atlantic is rapidly making itself a favorite neighborhood
haunt that diners return to again and again because of the pleasant
service and great value it offers – a novelty in neighborhoods
with high price tags on everything from real estate to used furniture.
It’s those little touches that mean a lot, like the wine menu
offering more than 20 wines costing no more than $20 a bottle.
The Downtown Atlantic dining room has that all-important feature,
flattering lighting, as well as warm, exposed brick walls (with
bricked up arches that Sippel believes to be the walls of a former
carriage house) and a sizeable bar in its center, which happily
attracts a quiet bar crowd. (The two TVs are mercifully inaudible.)
Downtown Atlantic is also decorated with a collection of historic
Brooklyn photographs as well as an antique bottle collection
which Sippel excavated during the renovation and expansion of
the space.
Did we mention there are fresh flowers in addition to the candles
on the tables, and cozy burgundy banquettes along the walls?
It’s not overly-trendy; it’s the kind of place where your parents
will feel comfortable but you could just as well stare dreamily
into the eyes of a romantic date.
Sippel, the former executive chef and manager of the Donald Sacks
Restaurant in the World Financial Center, decided that after
Sept. 11, 2001, it was time to open the restaurant that he had
been dreaming of.
Among the appetizers are Sippel’s crispy mahjong shrimp rolls,
which arrive in an artfully placed pinwheel dotted with sesame
seeds and filled with whole pieces of fresh shrimp and mushrooms.
We’re still drooling over them.
When his impossibly tender, smoky, grilled octopus on a bed of
arugula and radicchio is available as an appetizer – snap it
up, too.
My dining partner is not a seafood fan, so he ordered the roasted
beet salad with gorgonzola cheese, roasted pecans, cherry tomatoes
and a light black pepper vinaigrette on a bed of mixed greens.
That salad is a crowd pleaser. We enjoyed the combination of
flavors and textures – creamy cheese, sweet beets and crunchy
nuts.
So far, everything at Downtown Atlantic was a hit.
We even found the 2001 Bonterra Chardonnay from California –
one of the $20 selections – to be the right complement to all
of Sippel’s dishes. (And for the health conscious, it’s from
an organic vineyard!)
While I was pleased with the pan-seared cod entree with roasted
plum tomatoes and calamata olives, the pork chops paillard served
over arugula and topped with a fresh tomato salad were a bit
overcooked and dry.
The cod did arrive at the table piping hot in its shallow pool
of buttery broth, and after it cooled a bit, the salty olives,
fruity roasted tomatoes and fluffy cod made for a happy threesome.
The side of couscous was light, buttery and cheesy and made for
a delicious vehicle to absorb the broth.
Sippel’s menu also features a wide selection of sandwiches, soups
and salads for those looking for lunch or a light dinner.
Adjacent to the spacious restaurant is the bakery of wife Fran
Sippel, a pastry chef and custom cake designer. She sells, among
other confections, emulsifier-free cupcakes that "fly off
the shelves," according to general manager Christian Sippel,
Kurt’s brother.
The desserts on Downtown Atlantic’s menu are also baked on the
premises. We loved the sexy chocolate banana cream tart with
its luscious strawberries and vintage boa of toasted, chewy coconut.
While the Downtown ice cream sandwich was simple comfort food,
who can belittle the tasty homemade chocolate chip cookies and
chocolate ice cream dessert? Other American dessert staples on
offer included warm apple tart, cheesecake and old-fashion berry
shortcake.
The classic desserts are equaled by expertly poured cappuccinos
and espressos.
We’ll be back to try all of Sippel’s other offerings of course,
but we’re also returning for brunch on a Saturday or Sunday when
Atlantic Avenue’s many great boutiques are open, so we can walk
off our over-indulgence with some window shopping.
Downtown Atlantic Restaurant and Bakery
is located at 364 Atlantic Ave. between Bond and Hoyt streets
in Boerum Hill. The restaurant accepts American Express, MasterCard
and Visa. Entrees: $6-$18. For more information, call (718) 852-9945.
