"If you say the word ’customer,’ you
get fired," said Hakan Memis, co-owner of the two-month-old
Bay Ridge restaurant, Blue Breeze, explaining his wait-staff
philosophy.
"This is my home and everyone here is my guest."
The Turkish-Mediterranean restaurant is a dream come true for
the Turkish-born owner, although he did stray from the decor
of classical Turkish eateries.
The decor at Blue Breeze features antique pieces, like a wood-framed
mirror, an old-fashioned dresser and a leather sofa that contrast
with a contemporary-style bar with glass shelves and a television
set. Small lamps lining the pale pink walls of the dining area
project flattering, dim lighting onto tables covered with crisp
white linens.
Although the decor might not be traditionally Turkish, aside
from a protective glass eye hung on one of the walls, the food
and the customs are. A meal is typically started with pan-fried
calf liver served with onion and parsley.
If the word "liver" puts a damper on your appetite,
opt for top-notch stuffed vine leaves with melt-in-your-mouth
rice, pine nuts, currants, fresh dill and mint. Another great
cold appetizer option is "lebni," a thick, homemade
yogurt with walnuts, garlic and dill.
The "iskender," thinly sliced lamb grilled on a vertical
spit and served with yogurt and fresh tomato sauce on pita bread,
is Memis’ most highly recommended dish. You can also try chefs
Sasha Ilter and Sadik Cicek’s own specialty, the chicken "sarma"
(pictured), marinated chicken breast stuffed with rice and pistachios
served on a bed of sauteed spinach with mashed potatoes and tarragon
sauce.
Blue Breeze also offers rich, but light-tasting, desserts such
as the "ayva," an Asian pear filled with vanilla ice
cream, topped with whipped cream and served with mint and raspberry
sauce, and the less extravagant, but just as delicious, almond
pudding.
Each Turkish dining experience is sealed with a strong cup of
Turkish coffee served black with only a bit of sugar. Ask Memis
to tell your fortune from the grinds left in the bottom of your
cup.
Since the coffee might keep you up for the rest of the night,
you might as well move over to the full bar and ask the friendly
owner for a glass of raki, the Turkish national drink also known
as "lion’s milk." When mixed with half a glass of water,
the anise-flavored liquid turns a cloudy white. Drink more than
one serving of this licorice-flavored apertif and you just might
have to spend the night. A less potent option is Efes Pilsner,
an imported Turkish beer.
Blue Breeze [7204 Third Ave. at 72nd Street, (718) 567-8300]
accepts American Express, MasterCard and Visa. Open Tuesday through
Sunday for lunch and dinner from 11 am to 11 pm; Sundays also
offer brunch. Closed Mondays. Entrees: $10-$17.
