Walk into Yolele, the new Senegalese bistro
in Bedford-Stuyvesant, and the experience causes a moment of
awed shock.
Everything from the tables and benches, to the dramatic floor-to-ceiling
artwork is imposing. A long bench, carved from a single tree
by a Senufo craftsman, serves as both a seating area and an unusual
centerpiece. The leaves of giant plants cast shadows about the
room, creating a second layer of visual appeal.
But the most extraordinary piece is a wooden statue that stretches
to the ceiling.
The sculpture is a tribute to Mami Wata, a goddess of the sea,
who, according to African folklore, bestows blessings on those
she favors. If someone has sinned, or worse, hasn’t shown the
respect this high-maintenance goddess demands – watch out.
Mami Wata has cast her blessings over Yolele (Yo-LAY-lee). You
can feel her spirit in the gracious welcome as you enter. Her
warmth is evident in the serene pace and gentle service of the
wait staff. But it is in chef Pierre Thiam’s Senegal-based global
cooking that Mami Wata is keenly sensed.
Yolele, which opened on Fulton Street in January, is the product
of three Senegalese partners – Thiam and co-owners Fallou Ndaw
and Moussa Diadhiou. Thiam, who spent seven years as the chef
de cuisine of Boom, in SoHo, and is a sought-after restaurant
consultant, creates dishes he describes as "world cuisine
– predominantly African, influenced by France, Vietnam and Morocco."
The meal transports the diner to the Ivory Coast with the exotic,
mouth-tingling "Pepesoup." The soup begins with a fish
stock reduced until it is creamy. Slices of velvety tilapia (a
mild white fish) add sweetness; Scotch bonnet chilies lend a
bright heat that’s sharpened with lime. Yolele’s bread looks
like birch tree bark with its brittle, crunchy crust. A slice
of that bread, dipped into the "Pepesoup," is a sensory
memory in the making.
One great moment in a meal peppered with high points happened
after tasting the peanut sauce that accompanied skewered slices
of succulent lamb. To the mix of peanuts and peanut butter, Thiam
adds coconut milk, lemongrass and curry. The flavor is nutty,
tart and multi-layered with sweet and smoky spices. Thiam employs
the Scotch bonnet chili again, using it to add fire to this complex
sauce.
Moist Moroccan meat patties made from highly-spiced ground beef,
called kefta, came with a plate-mate of ruby red peppers. Thiam
grills the peppers until they’re soft and sweet then cooks them
with tomato sauce and a lot of garlic. Visually, the dish resembles
an Italian pepper salad, but its flavor is different. Scotch
bonnet peppers add little heat this time, but the chilies serve
to deepen each ingredients’ character.
Every restaurant needs a signature dish and the "Couscous
Royal" is Yolele’s. A lamb shank, so long and slowly cooked
that the meat falls from the bone, perches over a pillow of fluffy,
nutty tasting couscous (tiny bits of semolina). Chili-enhanced
slices of beef and lamb sausage, called merguez, and long slices
of carrots and turnips crown the couscous. All of the perfectly
cooked meat is drizzled with a sauce of meat juices flavored
with cinnamon, cumin, cilantro and parsley, that manage to showcase
each of its ingredients without overpowering one another. More
of the sauce is served on the side. You won’t need it, but my
guess is you’ll use it anyway.
There’s no way a salmon filet, even one dressed up with spinach,
mint and fermented black beans over couscous, could compete with
a dish like the lamb extravaganza. This salmon was slightly overcooked
yet still tasty, but the black bean sauce didn’t have much oomph.
On Yolele’s dessert roundup is a pastry that shouldn’t be missed.
Thiam rolls a paper-thin crust for a French tart that tastes
of fresh butter. He tops that ethereal crust with thin slices
of tart apple and mango then burnishes the fruit with browned
butter infused with fresh ginger. The mango adds a supple texture
and a note of cinnamon, while the apple keeps the dessert clean
tasting.
It’s delectable.
The tart comes with a scoop of ordinary vanilla ice cream that
makes a fine partner. Anything fussier would be overkill.
Two hours passed from the time we entered Yolele, to the time
dessert and coffee arrived. The room settled into a peaceful
quietness, with the music turned low and diners lingering over
their meals. Near me, a little boy, covered with his father’s
coat, slept on the wooden bench.
In the Fulani language, Yolele means "spirit of joyfulness."
That’s just how we felt walking into the cold evening air knowing
that Mami Wata’s blessing went with us.
Yolele (1108 Fulton St. between Classon
and Franklin avenues in Bedford-Stuyvesant) accepts Visa, MasterCard,
American Express and Discover. Entrees: $10-$13.50. Dinner and
lunch are served seven days a week. Brunch is served from 11
am to 4 pm Saturdays and Sundays. For reservations, call (718)
622-0101.
