If location, location, location is the
golden rule for any new business, then La Brunette, a restaurant
that opened recently in the shadow of the Brooklyn-Queens Expressway,
is the ultimate risk-taker. Too far from the hubbub of the Williamsburg
dining scene to be stumbled upon by curious diners, it has managed
to fill its tables thanks to good word-of-mouth.
In the evening, La Brunette can be spotted by a single glowing
light cast by the sign in the restaurant’s front window. Inside,
it’s quiet, with music kept at a level that makes conversation
possible, and sound absorbing design flourishes, like a tufted
banquette running the length of one wall, and polished wood panels
that resemble highly lacquered Swiss cheese along the other.
The back room has a warmer feel with spice-colored walls, a big
copper chandelier and ample space between tables.
There’s less of a "scene" here than you might expect
from a restaurant in an artists’ community. (The absence of black
clothing was immediately apparent.) Right now, tables are filled
with affluent looking older couples.
"People are finding us, said owner Aleksandra Drozd. "I’m
confident that the local artists will find us, too."
She’s right to be confident. Once found, La Brunette is easy
to love. Chef Jacques Gautier’s French-Caribbean cooking, so
assured and full of vibrant flavor, is simply a joy to consume.
While waiting for our appetizers the kitchen sent us a little
amuse bouche (French for "amusement for the mouth")
that were two bites of pure pleasure. A rich duck confit (cooked
in its own fat) served with soft, sweet caramelized onions, was
enlivened with just enough lime juice to give the flavors a little
zing.
The service is of the "Hello my name is David" variety,
which worried me. Elaborate descriptions of the food, and personal
"best bets" on the menu often follow such an introduction.
I needn’t have worried. David led us knowledgeably and unobtrusively
through our meal.
On David’s recommendation, we ordered the terrine of oxtail and
avocado, which was, as he described, "beautifully presented."
The deep brown terrine, a fat, triangular wedge, sat atop splashes
of red chili-flavored oil and green plantain chips. Pairing the
assertively flavored oxtail with delicate avocado would seem
an unlikely match. In Gautier’s hands, the two elements taste
natural, not forced. The oxtail lent a beefy taste and chewy
texture to the terrine, while the avocado contributed a lush
creaminess.
Lobster bisque, made with cream, yet lighter then a traditional
bisque, was served over a mound of sweet lobster meat and freshened
with ginger and lime juice: the ginger and lime juice added an
unexpected heat, and a touch of tartness.
A simple salad of purple potatoes and haricots verts (thin, crisp
string beans) was presented as a lavish checkerboard on the plate
– tender slices of potatoes crisscrossed with the beans and drizzled
with an aioli. The delicate flavors of the salad were a refreshing
respite between the spicy appetizers and entrees.
Entree portions are large. A seemingly cubist arrangement of
shrimp on sugar canes teetered against a big baked coconut, almost
comically overblown. The enormous tiger prawns, served with big
chunks of tender squid, tasted of grilled smokiness, and the
sugar cane lent a lingering sweetness. For $16, the only thing
oversized about the dish was its flavor.
Gautier’s cuisine is too exciting to be comfort food, but an
entree of braised lamb shanks served with tropical tubers, came
close. One enormous shank, perfectly tender, was served in a
rich, meaty, tomato-laced sauce. The tubers, malanga and yuca
(starchy root vegetables) made a respectable stand-in for the
usual mashed potatoes. It’s not the most exciting dish on the
menu, but if you’re ordering lamb shanks, excitement may not
be your goal.
Desserts are less adventurous but equally appealing. Toasted
coconut ice cream leans toward the Caribbean, while an apple
tart, creme brulee (coffee flavored the evening I was there),
a rich chocolate souffle and a delectable chocolate mousse honor
the French. The mousse, flavored simply with chocolate (nothing
fusion about it) ended our meal on a high note.
In Brooklyn, we have our share of fine restaurants. I’ve eaten
in many of them and each one has had something special to offer
– the food was innovative and delicious, or the decor inspired
me – but not all of them delivered the whole package. Everything
about La Brunette worked for me: Gautier’s delicious cooking
at prices that are beyond reasonable, the quietly elegant dining
rooms, the accommodating staff.
If I were to gaze into a culinary crystal ball this is what I’d
see: Drozd booking reservations for tables months in advance,
while lines of black-clad locals, illuminated by the light of
the front window, wait patiently for tables.
La Brunette (300 North Sixth St., between
Meeker Avenue and Havermeyer Street in Williamsburg) is open
for dinner Tuesday through Sunday, from 6 pm to midnight. The
restaurant accepts Visa, MasterCard, Discover and American Express.
Entrees: $11-$18. For reservations, call (718) 384-5800.
