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In Verde veritas! New Smith St. Italian serves awesome tuna

In Verde veritas! New Smith St. Italian serves awesome tuna
Photo by Bess Adler

Look, there are lots of restaurants on Smith Street — and many of them are great — but none of them served us a plate of seared sashimi-grade tuna over beans and herbs as good as Verde did last week.

Chef Dino Castri is behind the stove at Cono Moreno’s new venture, and though the menu features a wide range of antipasti, salads, pastas and meat dishes (including a salty-briny spaghetti with sea urchin and scallops), the tonno con purea di legume ($27.50) is the standout — just charred enough on the outside to create a contrast to the almost buttery raw tuna inside.

And when it’s consumed in such a delightful setting — a former Laundromat that’s been converted into a sophisticated, warmly lit room with a lively bar scene and a quiet garden — it tastes even better.

Also, don’t miss that flourless chocolate cake with sea salt for dessert.

Verde [216 Smith St. between Baltic and Butler streets in Carroll Gardens, (718) 222-1525].