In 2002, I visited a restaurant in Williamsburg
called La Brunette. It was a small place with a chic, modern
interior. Although the eatery got a lot of hype early on for
its hip ambience and consistently fine French-Caribbean menu,
a few months later, it closed.
I’d wondered what happened to its talented chef, Jacques Gautier,
who left the eatery not long after I dined there. In August,
when I heard that he had resurfaced with his own place in Park
Slope, I knew a visit was in order.
At a recent dinner in his restaurant, Palo Santo (named for the
South American tree), I found him in good form. He has fashioned
an inviting, informal space with a menu that reflects his Caribbean
family’s roots and extensive cooking experience in Europe. The
menu, which changes daily according to what’s market fresh, is
"eclectic Latin," which means that a succulent duck
leg will be served with a rich mole sauce and mustard greens,
and a salad of mixed greens will include strips of poblano chile
pepper and tart vinaigrette dressing.
Gautier has transformed the street level space of a brownstone
into a warm, Latin-inspired environment. You can spot the restaurant,
which sits between Fourth and Fifth avenues on a mostly residential
street, by the decorative railing leading to the building’s second
floor.
In the dining area are wooden tables designed and built by Gautier
using salvaged wood. Perched along the lengthy counter, diners
are afforded a view of the kitchen where a mosaic installation
by Alonso Tamayo runs the length of the wall.
If you sit at the counter, you should consider trying Gautier’s
tasting menu. He’ll chat with you as he cooks, creating dishes
to your specifications. For a vegetarian, he’ll set forth a selection
of meatless plates. If you’re a seafood lover, you can feast
on fish, and so on.
Simple pairings, often balancing tart, lemony notes against sweeter,
richer flavors, give his dishes complexity.
An appetizer of half a grilled quail features half of the little
bird. It’s intensely rich with moist, dark meat and a brittle
skin that stays crisp – even with a fragrant, garlicky smear
of "chimichurri" (an Argentinean herb sauce). A brightly
flavored, lemon-enhanced ratatouille (eggplant stew) makes a
toothsome partner.
Gautier enhances the meaty quality of bluefin tuna slices by
searing them briefly, then adding a bit of aioli on the side.
The sauce has a mild hit of garlic that doesn’t compete with
fish. Crisp string beans and slices of radishes in a citrus dressing
brighten the plate.
An entree of four grilled, Mayan shrimp is intriguing. The sweetness
of the huge, head-on prawns in their shells is amplified by moist,
briny rice flavored with black squid ink and an herb, called
"marsh samphire," that tastes a bit like watercress.
A duck leg with a complex mole sauce was superb. Often the intense
spices of the mole can overpower the rich meat. His version offers
subtle layers of taste and less unctuousness than some I’ve tried,
making it an ideal foil for the duck. Slices of roasted plantains
lent sweetness, and the bitter edge of sauteed mustard greens
balanced the ingredients.
Pork can be a luscious treat or an arid disappointment. Gautier’s
tenderloin (a cut of meat that can be dry due to its low fat
content) is crusty on the outside and dripped juice when I cut
into it. He serves it with a beer-enhanced sauce and a stack
of roasted sweet potato slices.
Each of the three desserts on the menu is enjoyable. Bittersweet
chocolate pudding is too rich for a single person. Order it for
a table of chocolate lovers so each person can have a single
bite. Lime pie is dense yet creamy with a buttery, gingersnap
crust, and coffee creme brulee has enough espresso beans to ward
off sleep for a week.
At the moment, the liquor license hasn’t be granted, so it’s
bring your own bottle. When it comes through, Gautier will only
serve wines from South American vineyards. Don’t let that stop
you from visiting. When a chef is in his element, as Gautier
is behind the stove at Palo Santo, you eat well.
Palo Santo (652 Union St. between Fourth
and Fifth avenues in Park Slope) accepts cash only. Entrees:
$9-$19. Breakfast is served Monday through Friday, lunch is served
daily, and dinner is available Tuesday through Sunday. Closed
Monday nights. The restaurant will be closed Nov. 25-26. For
more information, call (718) 636-6311 or visit the Web site at
www.palosanto.us.
