A workman quietly measured a doorframe
last weekend as we sampled dishes from the barely opened Le Dakar
Restaurant & Cafe in Clinton Hill, the second outpost of
chef Pierre Thiam, whose bistro Yolele in Bedford-Stuyvesant
has earned a steady clientele and accolades from food writers.
Like Yolele, the new cafe, named for the capitol of Senegal,
serves as backdrop for dramatic African art. And, because she’s
worked so well as Yolele’s good luck charm, Thiam has installed
a sculpture of the temperamental goddess, Mami Wata, near the
door. As folklore goes, those who show gratitude for gifts bestowed
will be blessed. You’ll feel her spirit after your meal.
But until the gas line is working, Thiam will entice diners with
small plates of complex Senegalese dishes. A few to try are the
tender grilled shrimp over chunks of ripe papaya served with
romaine leaves tossed in a deliciously tart lemongrass and mint
dressing; the slightly greasy (in a good way), chubby vegetable
spring rolls that are really old-fashioned egg rolls in disguise;
and simple slices of mango and avocado drizzled with the lemongrass
dressing (pictured).
Thiam’s "Paris Dakar," a tart topped with thin slices
of apples and mango on a crisp, buttery crust, is a luscious
way to end the meal.
Le Dakar Restaurant & Cafe (285 Grand Ave. between Lafayette
Avenue and Clifton Place in Clinton Hill) accepts American Express,
Diner’s Club, Discover, MasterCard and Visa. The restaurant is
open daily for dinner. Until the full menu is available, small
plates are $5-$10. For more information visit www.dakarcafe.net
or call (718) 398-8900.
