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OK, maybe brunch ain’t so bad

Sure, I may have badmouthed the institution of brunch, but even a jaded hack like me has to admit that there are some restaurants that make me want to settle down in a long-term relationship again.

Tom’s Restaurant

782 Washington Ave., at Sterling Place, in Prospect Heights, (718) 636-9738, Cash only

Gus Vlahavas’s diner is the Old Reliable of weekend eateries — at least on Saturdays. Just thinking of the sweet potato pancakes with the flavored butters and bulging beef sausage is enough to bring a smile to my face and remind me that it’s time for my annual physical. Tom’s is closed on Sunday, the biggest brunch day.

La Taqueria

72 Seventh Ave., between Lincoln and Berkeley places, in Park Slope, (718) 398-4300, Cash only

You can’t find a better breakfast burrito east of Oakland than here. A monstrous tortilla is stuffed to capacity with potatoes, eggs and grilled steak. It’s delicious and washed down by a glass of fresh-squeezed juice.

Olea

171 Lafayette Ave., at Adelphi Street in Fort Greene, (718) 643-7003, American Express, MasterCard, Diner’s Club, Visa

The pan-Mediterranean fare is so tasty that even I’m willing to happily wait for my turn at a table. Each component of the green eggs and lamb combo (cilantro scrambled eggs and merguez sausage), which also includes portions of salad, potatoes and toasted pita, is as good as the next.

Bar Tabac

128 Smith St., at Dean Street in Cobble Hill, (718) 923-0918, American Express

Mussels cooked in white wine and served with French fries — does this even count as brunch? Most definitely. Eggs Florentine, Benedict and any number of other varieties are on the menu, but you can easily delude yourself into thinking you’re out to dinner while perusing the hearty menu.