Four-star, wunderkind
chef Thomas Ferlesch (pictured), most recently of Cafe des Artistes
and before that Vienna ’79, has opened his first restaurant,
Thomas Beisl, across Lafayette Avenue from the Brooklyn Academy
of Music.
"In Vienna," says Ferlesch, "bistros serve the
young and the old, intellectuals and students, plumbers, doctors,
artists, everyone. It makes a wonderful atmosphere." It
is just that "come one, come all" spirit that Ferlesch
hopes his Thomas Beisl (beisl means bistro) will be to the Fort
Greene neighborhood.
Ferlesch did most of the renovation himself, stripping and staining
antique chairs that he picked up on Atlantic Avenue. The lighting
is moody and romantic with amber-tinted sconces and candles on
the tables.
Thomas Beisl’s location – there’s BAM of course, Mark Morris’
dance studio is up the street, and Urban Glass, a glass-blowing
studio, is a few blocks away – all but ensures an art-loving
crowd. Plan on seeing black-clad diners eating velvety, eggplant
terrine topped with goat cheese or a seafood salad with scallions,
parsley and jalapenos. Wiener schnitzel with cucumber salad and
parsley potatoes, and beef goulash made with braised beef cheeks
and served with spaetzle, are among the entrees.
No one skips dessert in a Viennese restaurant. (What do you think
inspired the Viennese dessert table at all those Bar Mitzvahs?)
There’s palatschinken, crepes stuffed with apricot jam or chocolate
hazelnut cream, and a linzertorte. Ask for the torte mit schlag
– that’s with whipped cream.
Thomas Beisl (25 Lafayette Ave. between Ashland Place and St.
Felix Street) accepts American Express. Entrees: $13-$16. The
restaurant is open daily, from noon to midnight, and serves brunch
Saturdays and Sundays, from 10 am to 4 pm. For reservations,
call (718) 222-5800.
PRE-SHOW EATS
