The holiday season is a wonderful time
of year because we are reminded and grateful for the love of
our family and friends. It’s the time of year when twinkling
lights, eggnog and a phone call from a chum you haven’t heard
from in a year warm your insides even as the weather grows colder.
If there is a restaurant team that understands the importance
of family and friends, it is chefs Debbie Lyn and Marco Morillo.
The couple are proprietors of the five-month-old restaurant Crave
in Carroll Gardens.
Their tiny outpost – just four tables – on a primarily residential
block, is so cozy that when a neighboring patron enjoyed a shrimp
appetizer, they felt comfortable enough to exclaim their compliment
to the nearby chef.
The owners, in turn, thoughtfully and discreetly cater to their
customers’ needs, even if those needs are a high chair, a kid’s
menu (including Jell-O with gummy worms!) or children’s books.
The only thing a diner needs to worry about is saving room for
dessert! (But more on that later.)
Crave’s romantic ambiance is born of flickering candles and fresh
flowers on the tables and a window seat scattered with pillows.
Morillo and Lyn make it nearly impossible not to enjoy yourself
– and not just because they have all the accoutrements for young
families. In fact, as soon as diners dip their forks into the
duo’s inventive appetizers and entrees, they’ll no longer notice
the steady stream of fans picking up takeout dinners.
Crave’s new menu is difficult to categorize, seemingly taking
the best from various cuisines, but the overall impression is
of clean, powerful flavors from the freshest ingredients.
The deep-fried shitake and leek spring rolls are served with
a basil and ponzu (a traditional Japanese soy and rice wine vinegar
sauce). The roll was served too hot, but once they cooled, the
crispy rolls were brimming with substantial chunks of shitake
mushrooms and had a kick from Thai chilies.
We were pleased by the staff’s wine recommendations – another
aspect of the meal you won’t have to worry about. In this case,
a dry, light 2002 Vanguard syrah complemented the rolls. Crave’s
affordable wines ($16.50-$22.50 a bottle) are available both
by the glass and by the bottle, which will encourage patrons
to try something other than their usual glass of merlot.
For a wintry evening, nothing is as steamy, aromatic and flavorful
as Lyn and Morillo’s arctic char served with seasonal vegetables
en papillote. The heavy pink fish, not unlike salmon, was served
in the paper shell where it had roasted with lemon and an Asian
stir-fry mix of vegetables including snow peas, red peppers and
pomegranates. Wow! (Lyn says the vegetables vary depending on
what ingredients are the freshest available in the markets.)
Crave also offers all of the familiar favorites: burgers, salads,
soups, sandwiches and pastas as well as the aforementioned kid’s
menu.
Don’t rush your meal. It’s so difficult to find the time to get
together with friends, you should linger over one of Crave’s
decadent desserts.
White chocolate cheesecake with raspberry coulis and chocolate
truffle cake with white chocolate sauce are two particularly
wondrous creations that reveal the expertise Lyn earned during
her time served in the Manhasset, L.I., Payard Patisserie and
Bistro. (The holidays are for celebrating, after all. The calorie
counting can start after Valentine’s Day.)
The "Italian sipping teas" – peach and lemon – offered
exclusively by Crave, in Brooklyn, bowled us over. The warm,
sweet peach shot, served in an espresso cup, makes a robust,
non-caffeinated alternative to coffee that will brace you for
the chilly trip home.
We trudged out into the night air exclaiming over our new discovery:
Crave is a cozy retreat in Carroll Gardens with a menu that has
something to win over everyone in your holiday dining party –
from gourmands to the beer-and-burger guys.
Bon appetit and happy holidays!
Crave is located at 570 Henry St., between
Carroll and Summit streets, in Carroll Gardens. Crave serves
brunch on Sundays from noon to 4 pm; and dinner on Sundays, Tuesdays,
Wednesdays and Thursdays, from 5 pm to 10 pm, and Fridays and
Saturdays, from 5 pm to 11 pm. Crave accepts American Express,
Discover, MasterCard and Visa. Free delivery with a $10 minimum
purchase. Closed Mondays. For reservations and more information
about catering services, call (718) 643-0361.
