The many regular clients of Dizzy’s in
Park Slope might not recognize Dizzy’s Kitchen as being by the
same owners.
Situated on the corner of Ninth Street and Eighth Avenue, Dizzy’s
is a quintessential diner, with everything that contributes to
that down-home, all-American feel – black-and-white checkered
linoleum floor, red vinyl banquettes, bar with fixed metal stools
covered in the same red vinyl, exposed ducts and a blackboard
with the daily menu scrawled in chalk.
Dizzy’s Kitchen, Ben Hoen and Matt Pisciotta’s contribution to
the Seventh Avenue culinary scene, is an upscale deli and catering
operation off St. John’s Place with a touch of class and haute
quality that hints at the elegant occasions to which it caters.
Dizzy’s
After only three years, Dizzy’s has become something of a neighborhood
institution (Hoen, Pisciotta and their staff will be celebrating
the restaurant’s third birthday this week and will be redecorating
in honor of the occasion).
"This place was a much beloved diner when we bought it,"
said Pisciotta. "There was some resistance to it changing
hands, but the Parktown Coffee Shop’s customers soon came to
realize how community oriented we are. Now they come in every
day and drink coffee."
The restaurant is clearly very community-based with a lot of
customer interaction and a sense of fun. Every month, for instance,
a different neighborhood artist displays their work.
"We accept all kinds of art. It’s great for us and for them,"
said Pisciotta. The names of regular customers are used for favorite
sandwiches and, as part of the birthday celebration, the menus
will be redesigned to feature their photographs.
Dizzy’s offers all the basic dishes one expects from a diner
and more – breakfast (cereals, pastries, juices and smoothies,
sides and a substantial selection of coffees and teas), lunch
(soups and snacks, salads, combination plates, burgers and sandwiches),
and a dinner menu that combines both basic comfort food, (nachos
with cheddar and guacamole), entrees (catch of the day, meatloaf)
and daily specials.
Most notable of the standard diner dishes was the macaroni and
cheese, made with five cheeses, three colors of pasta, and Rice
Krispies topping – just enough like standard fare to keep finicky
kids on board but interesting enough to serve as dinner to a
more sophisticated palate. The melding of the cheeses gives the
dish added depth, and the crispness of the topping lends an interesting
texture.
The meatloaf, wrapped in smoked bacon and served with roasted
garlic mashed potatoes and sauteed green beans, was what comfort
food should be – satisfyingly dense and moist. The meatloaf was
beautifully complemented by delectably garlicky mashed potatoes
that were smooth but not cloying, and fresh beans steamed to
perfection. I could see myself on a cold winter’s eve with this
meal and a full-bodied glass of red wine.
Also worth mentioning was the gumbo from the "specials"
list. Made with salmon, tuna, shrimp and basmati rice, this gumbo
was heavy on the fish flavors, lighter on meat and vegetables,
but a good melding of tastes and textures.
"Our Kalifa [Dizzy’s chef] is definitely the gumbo guy,"
Pisciotta said enthusiastically. "He’s simply the best."
One dessert stood out as the crowning jewel of the evening –
affogato, made with a shot of top-quality espresso, a scoop of
vanilla ice cream and topped with a dollop of whipped cream.
Better than any coffee ice cream or fancy coffee drinks this
took the essence of coffee flavor and integrated it with the
rich sensations of ice cream and fresh whipped cream and the
added flavor of vanilla.
Dizzy’s Kitchen
The food at Dizzy’s Kitchen is quite different from that at Dizzy’s,
the diner.
"It’s like comparing apples and oranges," said Hoen.
"We make gourmet prepared food for special occasions, and
upscale deli fare to carry out." The array of carryout selections,
displayed in a large counter along the back wall, is large and
diverse as well as being extremely fresh.
From the pastry section, I sampled the buttery, light croissants,
just out of the oven (both chocolate and regular), and was impressed
with the flakiness of the pastry and the quality of the dark
chocolate.
Also among the pastries are particularly dense, dark brownies,
moist blondies (with white chocolate and cherries – yum), and
the first real English scones I’ve been able to find in Brooklyn.
The scones were biscuit-like and moist (these had a hint of apricot),
unlike the heavy, dry fare so often passed off as scones in other
establishments.
Salads were all interesting in the new American-fusion style
of cooking – excellent udon noodles with spicy peanut sauce and
scallions; farfalle with roasted garlic, broccoli, sundried tomatoes,
pesto and chevre cheese; and orzo with calamata olives, capers,
oregano, extra virgin olive oil and tomato filets.
The menu also includes more standard fare: curried chicken salad
with apples, raisins and cashews (a favorite among DK’s clientele);
quiche to your own taste; guacamole; and hummus with pita.
Dizzy’s Kitchen sandwiches include imaginative wraps (avocado,
lettuce and tomato with roasted shallot aioli, grilled veggies
with roasted red pepper, saffron and goat cheese ); artisanal
(handmade) bread sandwiches (smoked turkey breast, brie, arugula
and apricot mustard on fresh-baked whole wheat, and three selections
served on focaccia, including the classic fresh mozzarella, garden
tomatoes and basil with balsamic vinaigrette).
Pisciotta brought me what has become a house favorite, a tuna
and hardboiled egg sandwich on baguette, reminding me of the
pan bagna I used to eat in the French city, Aix-en-Provence,
during my junior year of college there.
While the carryout business is doing remarkably well considering
that Dizzy’s Kitchen has only been open since April, the real
backbone of the business is catering and special events.
"This is what we do best, and it’s a booming business here
in Brooklyn," said Hoen. "We’ve done several weddings
and other events. We have a reception for 1,000 coming up at
the Brooklyn Museum."
The special events menu is divided into four sections of passed
hors d’oeuvres – land, sea, earth and sky – again in the innovative
American nouvelle style. While I didn’t taste these, Hoen said
that the most popular tend to be gorgonzola, polenta and sage
stuffed mushroom caps (earth); Thai roasted salmon summer rolls
with a sweet and spicy dipping sauce (sea); Moroccan lamb with
caramelized figs skewered with a cool mint yogurt sauce (land);
and glazed duck with apricot strudel and chevre cream sauce (sky)
– an impressively sophisticated melange of influences and flavors.
"While we can always guide people with menus and suggestions,
what we most love to do is to push clients in the direction of
innovation," said Hoen. "Weddings don’t have to be
straight out of the wedding books and magazines. We do a beautiful
tiered table of wedding pies in lieu of a wedding cake. We like
that and try to help clients follow their own instincts more,
uninhibited by standard traditions."
With the energy, enthusiasm, and hard work these bright young
foodies bring to the Park Slope scene, I envisage some mighty
fun parties and a new direction for what might have been run-of-the-mill
cocktail events.
"Fun, funky, frumpy, rumplesheets comfort," is how
Pisciotta described the rules of the road for Dizzy’s. That also
might be applied to the new Dizzy’s Kitchen.
Dizzy’s, at 511 Ninth St., does not
accept credit cards. For more information call (718) 499-1966.
Dinner entrees: $9.95-$16.95.
Dizzy’s Kitchen is located at 52 Seventh Ave. Carryout prices
range from $4 to $11, and accepts Visa and MasterCard. For more
information, call (718) 230-8900.
