Take a tiny storefront and turn it into
a 20-seat restaurant. Serve dishes based on one simple idea.
(In this case, the Mexican sandwich.) Add a few side dishes,
and voila – a great concept is born.
Such is the case of the Mexican Sandwich Company in Park Slope,
whose specialty is the quesadilla. While the sandwich of flour
tortillas stuffed with meat, cheese, beans, or other fillings,
folded in half and then grilled is nothing new, chef Tim Peterson’s
triple-layer version puts a spin on the traditional Mexican treat.
Peterson first served his quesadillas to the clientele of Happy
Endings, a bar in SoHo. (Peterson also served as sous chef at
Wyanoka, an "American Eclectic" restaurant in Manhattan.)
The sandwich was so popular with the bar’s patrons that Peterson
– with Peter Kane and Chris Santos – expanded on the idea.
The Mexican Sandwich Company opened on Fifth Avenue in March.
The cafe is small and casual with a tiled floor and wooden tables.
A glowing border of backlit, amber, glass tiles circles the room.
Eleven "signature quesadillas," either in a six-inch
or 12-inch size, are the eatery’s main draw. The six-inch version
will satisfy hearty eaters. If a diner isn’t inspired by wild
plum and brie cheese with smoked bacon and lavender-chili honey,
or wild mushroom with goat cheese and lamb’s lettuce quesadillas,
they can mix-and-match their own fillings.
Excellent soups and side dishes round out the menu.
Peterson uses familiar Mexican ingredients such as black beans,
jalapeno and chipotle peppers, and tomatillos (a tomato-like
fruit with a mild, lemony flavor), then spins off vibrant creations
that bear little resemblance to the wan grub passed off as Mexican
cuisine in some other establishments.
To start, there are four carefully prepared salsas. The spicy
mango is the best. Peterson dices the fruit fine then mixes it
with crisp, red onions and red peppers, ancho chiles and jalapenos.
The mango’s sweet, cinnamon flavor plays off the crunchy onions,
while the heat from the peppers provides a pleasing punch. Piled
atop warm cumin-dusted corn chips, it’s impossible to stop eating.
Buttery, ripe avocados were lightened with lemon and freshened
with chopped cilantro in a smooth guacamole. Traditional salsa
fresco and the chipotle-lime salsa were fresh, with the distinct
flavors of ripe tomatoes, chiles and cilantro.
If Peterson is serving white bean soup, order it. The beans are
pureed with roasted squash, mushrooms and corn. The roasting
brings out the earthy taste of the vegetables, and the puree
has a luxurious mouth feel – like heavy cream.
All but one of the sandwiches I tried (the one blooper was created
by my dining partner who should leave flavor blending to the
professionals) were beautifully balanced. Some were subtle, and
some had a real kick.
The chipotle shrimp quesadilla featured tender shrimp, roasted
red and yellow peppers, fresh spinach and pieces of tomatillo,
layered in spinach tortillas and splashed with a spicy poblano
cream. The sweetness of the shrimp was enhanced by the smoky
poblano. Roasted corn added chewiness, while feta cheese lent
just the right touch of salt.
On its own, duck confit (meat cooked and stored in its own fat)
with cheddar, in the barbecued duck sandwich, would be cloyingly
rich. Peterson cuts the pairing with spicy scallions, mango salsa
and a drizzle of a tart, blood orange sauce.
A cold glass of house-made, raspberry limeade or green apple
and mint juice pair well with the sandwich. They’re made with
very little sugar so they lean toward the sour, not sweet. Refills
of the beverages are free.
Later this month, when the cafe begins serving beer and wine,
try the chalada, Mexican beer with lime juice served in a sea
salt-rimmed glass.
When beans and cheese are enough of a good thing, customize a
flour tortilla with Monterey jack cheese, black beans and fresh
cilantro puree for an agreeable meal.
My one criticism is Peterson’s penchant for sprinkling chili
powder over everything. Too much chili powder splashed around
the plate and over a wilted side of mixed greens served only
to distract from the main event.
Il Laboratorio del Gelato, a Lower East Side purveyor of fine,
unusually flavored gelatos, provides the cafe’s desserts. A pie
filled with cinnamon-laced chocolate, marshmallow and a bit of
ancho chile powder will be added shortly.
A sandwich is a fine meal to eat any time. The Mexican Sandwich
Company turns modest fare into a small feast. It’s a simple idea,
but a good one.
The Mexican Sandwich Company (322 Fifth
Ave. between Second and Third streets in Park Slope) accepts
Visa and MasterCard. Quesadillas, $6.50-$13.50. The restaurant
serves lunch and dinner seven days a week. Delivery available
in Park Slope during restaurant hours, and other neighborhoods
outside of peak dining times. No reservations. For information,
call (718) 369-2058.
