If one doubted that Brooklyn’s food scene
was alive and thriving, a glance into the Grand Ballroom of the
New York Marriott Brooklyn, where the seventh annual Brooklyn
Eats Festival was held on Oct. 20, would assuage their uncertainty.
In that vast room, tables were covered with exquisite food contributed
by 49 of the borough’s finest restaurants, caterers and gourmet
shops. Rich, complex red and light, delicate white wines were
poured, and the aroma of strong coffee mingled with the scents
of garlic and pungent cheese. The super-sized event, sponsored
by the Brooklyn Chamber of Commerce, would have the hungriest
eater asking, "Isn’t this a bit much?"
Restaurateurs rose to the occasion, creating displays that matched
the drama of their dishes. Russell Guarneri of Lundy Bros., the
venerable seafood establishment in Sheepshead Bay, arranged shot
glasses of heady lobster bisque atop layers of granite. Under
a hut of sorts, Saulo Zamorano of Fort Greene’s A Table cut rare
slices of leg of lamb. Café Scaramouche owner and chef
Grace Martinez, whose baked goods ship daily to Dean and Deluca
and the United Nations, baked a huge, pumpkin-colored castle
that served as the centerpiece to her fruit tarts, sweet and
savory scones and carrot cake.
Rebecca Peters of Cocotte in Park Slope presented a sprightly
salad that resembled a tiny Jackson Pollock in the plate. Over
thin slices of tender potato, Peters sprinkled cubes of garnet-colored
roasted beets. A couple of dabs of creamy goat cheese added a
piquant taste; grains of sea salt and crisp slivers of shallots
lent crunch and sweetness to the beautifully conceived dish.
Another great start to the festival was offered by Park Slope’s
Aunt Suzie’s restaurant. James Moccia’s sweet and savory eggplant
caponata was a mix of soft squares of eggplant – not mushy –
with capers that brought a pleasing saltiness to the mix.
Newcomers Debbie Lyn and Marco Morillo of Crave in Carroll Gardens
presented a multi-textured salad that balanced the richness of
duck confit (meat cooked and stored in its own fat) with the
freshness of slightly bitter, curly frisee greens, cilantro and
chives. Tiny, caramelized pearl onions, slow-cooked until buttery
and sweet, and tart, crunchy pistachio vinaigrette united the
flavors.
Soups were plentiful. Paul Vicino of Five Front in DUMBO ladled
out a hearty, autumn-appropriate roasted corn chowder redolent
of smoky bacon. James Henderson of Gage & Tollner in Downtown
Brooklyn captured the delicacy and sweetness of she-crab in a
smooth-as-velvet bisque.
Marco Polo Ristorante in Carroll Gardens reprised the fabulous
pasta dish they served at last year’s festival. In a huge, hollowed
out wheel of parmesan cheese, Francesco Insingo swirled al dente
strands of spinach fettuccine. The pasta absorbed the flavors
of the cheese then Insingo finished the dish with earthy truffled
olive oil.
Cheryl Smith of Butta’ Cup Lounge in Fort Greene crowned a crisp
plantain chip with spicy jerk chicken and sweet mango chutney.
The watermelon martini that Smith served as a foil to the chicken’s
heat looked and tasted like innocent pink punch but its undetectable
gin and vermouth could leave an unsuspecting drinker lying face
down on the street.
Gary Jacobson, of the Columbia Street Waterfront District’s Alma
restaurant, braised pork in orange juice and garlic, added a
dollop of spicy guacamole and chopped red onion then heaped the
mix on a fried, corn tortilla.
Monica Byrne and Steve Deptula of Liberty Heights Tap Room &
Restaurant, topped focaccia with an assortment of ingredients.
Their caramelized onion and mozzarella cheese was the best of
the delicious lot. Marc Elliot of Whim in Carroll Gardens, tossed
tuna tartare in a sesame-ginger dressing that enhanced the freshness
of the fish. Serving the tartare on a brittle taro chip brought
the smooth texture of the fish into the spotlight.
Robert Ubhaus of the French cafe Paradou in Park Slope set unctuous
snails perfumed with garlic and parsley against a thin-as-paper
tart shell, placing the filling in high relief.
Great Performances, the caterer of BAMcafé, featured an
offering that lived up to its name. Chef Carlos Gomez’s tuna
mignon with carrot risotto was outstanding. The tuna’s crust
of sea salt and Sichuan peppercorns amplified the meaty flavor
of the fish and added great contrast to its buttery texture.
Fresh ginger in the pretty, orange, slightly sweet carrot risotto
lent a mild heat to the sumptuous dish.
Carnivores happily downed slices of Jim Tackas’ smoked beef brisket,
a staple of the Waterfront Ale House on Atlantic Avenue, where
Tackas serves as chef. Slices of rich, rare duck breasts were
carved and served to the crowd surrounding Chef Walter Plendner,
of the Marriott’s Archives Restaurant.
Desserts ranged from the familiar to more unusual fare. Approaching
Tuller Premium Food of Boerum Hill’s table one was met with a
hill of chewy, not-too-sweet chocolate chip and walnut cookies
that didn’t stray far from the Tollhouse variety – a good move
since Tollhouse cookies can’t be improved on.
Sweet Melissa Patisserie of Carroll Gardens, known for its elaborate,
special occasion cakes and high teas, didn’t disappoint. Pastry
chef Andrea Lekberg’s devils food cake with malted milk frosting
will remind diners of why layer cakes make better eating than
the flourless chocolate cakes that have been popular for far
too long.
Robert Morris of the Peaches and Cream Cafe scooped out servings
of light, creamy hand-cranked ice cream. His ginger, with pieces
of ginger snaps, and cinnamon and nutmeg-flavored pumpkin varieties
should lure new customers to his Clinton Hill shop.
Congratulations to Ebow Dadzie, "Monica" Chun Hui Ng
and Peter Pinkhasov, students enrolled in the hospitality management
department of the New York City College of Technology in Downtown
Brooklyn. The three were awarded the second annual Brooklyn Eats
scholarships of $1,000 each for outstanding academic achievement
and community service. The trio passed out recipes and golden
squares of their almond and butterscotch gateau to festival attendees.
And there was so much more. Vegetable, meat and poultry pates
that can’t be faulted; crab cakes, codfish cakes, ravioli filled
with seafood in wine-laced sauce, and hot curries. Michael-Towne
Wine & Spirits poured Château Haut-Belian 2002, a white
Bordeaux with a fresh citrus perfume. Brooklyn Brewery served
up their famous lager and weisse beers on tap and then in bottles
when the taps ran dry.
At the end of the evening, when the lights were turned up, guests
and festival participants broke into heartfelt applause. For
the chefs who created and served the great food, and those who
ate their way through the night, the ovation was deserved.
