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STATUS ROE

Sure you can get seafood on Smith Street.
But what about caviar? At Aqua, a seafood restaurant that opened
in April, Smith Street denizens can have theirs – in this case
tobiko caviar – four ways: with ginger, with wasabi, infused
with tea and herbs, or given a bite with hot pepper.



The lady of the house, chef Belinda Ber (formerly of Bice in
Manhattan), describes the mostly fish menu as "Mediterranean
with a multi-national bent."



To that end, there’s a Corsican-style bouillabaisse made with
shellfish – not the usual fish and shellfish melange – that Ber
says, "is more assertive than the usual French bouillabaisse."



Translation: A lot more garlic.



Coconut pot de creme, hazelnut biscotti with raspberry espresso
sauce, and white chocolate mousse are among the luscious desserts.




OK, so Aqua’s patrons have a view of Smith Street, not waves
crashing against the shore, and whatever breezes blow in come
from the kitchen. It’s as close as you’ll come to seaside dining
until you hit the shore this summer.



Aqua (174 Smith St. between Warren and Wyckoff streets in Boerum
Hill) accepts American Express, Visa and MasterCard. Entrees:
$17-$24.50. The restaurant serves dinner Monday through Saturday.
Closed Sundays. For reservations, call (718) 643-1589.