How best to describe Beast, the new bar
and restaurant in Prospect Heights? First, there’s the name,
which alternately conjures up images of meat roasting on spits
– and an S&M bar.
Then there’s the physical reality of the place.
From the outside, the less-than-lovely, brick-fronted facade
that makes a backdrop for a few umbrella-topped tables, could
be any nondescript watering hole; the bar area is part dive,
complete with two TV screens and an old Tapper video game in
the far corner, and part old school lounge with a few vintage
leather banquettes lining one wall. The back dining room, with
its soft-green walls and smattering of tables, could belong to
any casual bistro.
Regardless of its name and hamburger joint ambience, Beast is
a bar with a serious wine list and menu of surprisingly sophisticated
fare. Owner-chef Deborah Bicknese is fond of mythological creatures,
so a few are depicted in paintings and sculptures on the walls
– hence the name.
When she opened in February, Bicknese and co-chef Megan Fisk
aimed for a Spanish-style tapas place. But small portions soon
gave way to entree-sized dishes – not the super-sized American
kind, but more like European servings, which are ample enough.
"People in this neighborhood didn’t really get the tapas
concept," she said. "They thought we were being stingy."
Bicknese, who was a sommelier at "Molto" Mario Batali’s
Otto in the Village, and a cook in Fort Greene’s Viennese eatery,
Thomas Beisl, describes Beast’s cuisine as "mostly Mediterranean."
"I grew up in an Italian family with great cooks, so their
style has rubbed off on me," said Bicknese. Their influence
can be seen in hearty dishes like Parmesan potatoes, layered
with mozzarella, then baked, and her wine list that leans toward
the sunnier climates.
I’d love to see other restaurants adopt the "quartino"
as Bicknese and Park Slope’s Tempo have done, and as they do
in so many ristorantes in Italy. The "quartino" is
a quarter liter, or about two good-sized pours, for a third of
the cost of a bottle. It’s a great idea, as it enables diners
to share several varieties during one meal. In addition to the
well-chosen wines, there’s an esoteric selection of international
dessert wines, sherries and grappas.
The menu is divided into "Starters and Snacks," which
consists of smallish bites like the luscious Spanish tortilla;
and larger plates that are labeled "Earth," mostly
vegetables and cheese; "Land and Sky," meat preparations;
and seafood items, which fall under "Ocean." The Spanish
tortilla boasts layers of eggs, caramelized onions and tender
potatoes cut into squares and served with a hearty splash of
olive oil and a few pungent black olives.
With the dishes comes a basket filled with slices of a brittle-crusted
Italian loaf from the venerable Sullivan Street Bakery in Manhattan,
and chewy house-made bread charred on the grill and addictive
when dipped into a tiny saucer of olive oil and sprinkled with
sea salt.
The large bowl of short ribs, served off the bone, are braised
in lager for at least five hours until the meat is soft enough
to be eaten with a spoon. The reduced sauce begs to be sopped
up with the bread.
Spicy chorizo slices add heat to red wine and brandy, while the
liquor mellows the pungent meat. Thankfully, there’s plenty left
over for dunking.
I wouldn’t pass up the pile of grilled sardines with a mound
of eggplant relish, as much for the briny, meatiness of the fish
as the nutty quality of the vegetable and its hit of saline capers.
Silky, grilled Spanish "piquillo" peppers, with a filling
of under-seasoned and unpleasantly coarse salt cod, didn’t wow
me.
The "decadent Beastly desserts," as they are referred
to on the menu, are anything but beastly. There’s a lemon tart
with a thin buttery crust and creamy filling that is superb.
The tart’s quartet of pastry, thick whipped cream, drizzle of
passion fruit coulis and plump blackberries, so sweet and glistening
I wondered if they had been soaked in sugar syrup (but they are
"just great fruit," Bicknese assured me) make the dessert
memorable.
Another dessert featured a scoop of house-made pistachio ice
cream, which melted slowly over grilled baby bananas that sat
in a puddle of warm caramel. They were good, but not as wonderful
as the tart.
As for brunch, well, in some places it can be an assortment of
dismal breakfast items tossed together by bored cooks who’d rather
have stayed in bed. At Beast, even the hamburger is thoughtfully
prepared.
On a recent Sunday, a table of women celebrated a birthday while
Billie Holiday crooned in the background.
Crusty, large burgers, made with a mix of pork, veal and beef,
were served on coarse Sullivan Street rolls that absorbed the
patty’s juices yet stayed crisp. With the burgers came a salad
of new potatoes mixed with an assertive dressing, heavily laced
with bleu cheese, that stood up to the bold meat, and an accompanying
pickle that tasted as if it soaked in a brine of pure garlic.
For me, it was love at first bite.
A must to try is the chorizo hash – an oily mash of the spicy
sausage and chunks of potato topped with a poached egg and chipotle-laced
hollandaise sauce. The strong, rich coffee is brewed from beans
purchased at Gorilla Coffee, a shop on Park Slope’s Fifth Avenue.
Beast may be a simple bar for some, and a casual eatery for others.
For everyone, it holds the promise of an exciting meal.
Beast (638 Bergen St. at Vanderbilt
Avenue in Prospect Heights) accepts American Express, Diners
Club, Discover, MasterCard and Visa. Entrees: $6-$13. The restaurant
serves dinner daily. Brunch is offered from 11 am to 3 pm on
weekends. On Tuesday evenings local musicians and bands perform
with no cover charge. For more information call (718) 399-6855.
