Winter has me ready to sip a mojito on
a warm beach somewhere. But until I can get away, the blue tiles
and sunset-colored walls of the new Cubana Cafe on Smith Street
should satisfy the urge.
"It’s like a vacation here every day," promises owner
Steven Mousterou (pictured), who opened the cafe in November.
(Cubana Cafe is the sister to Mousterou’s year-old restaurant
of the same name in SoHo.)
Consulting chef Dan Forte’s menu is "Latin fusion with a
nouvelle cuisine twist," says Mousterou. So, close your
eyes, order another cocktail, and dig into lightened versions
of classic Cuban and Mexican dishes. There’s tender "ropa
vieja" (braised beef) in a sauce made piquant with olives,
sweetened with onions and served with rice and beans.
You can substitute ground turkey for the beef in the "picadillo"
(it’s mixed with raisins and yuca and seasoned with cumin) if
you’re worried about overdoing it, but there’s nothing light
about a Cuban sandwich of roast pork, dill pickles, Swiss cheese
and chipotle mayonnaise, no matter how you slice it.
Cubana Cafe (272 Smith St. between Sackett and DeGraw streets
in Carroll Gardens) accepts cash only. Entrees: $5-$14. The restaurant
serves breakfast all day, as well as lunch and dinner daily.
Brunch is served Saturdays and Sundays, from 10 am to 3 pm. For
more information, call (718) 858-3980.
