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This corned beef hash is smokin’!

This corned beef hash is smokin’!
The Brooklyn Paper / Julie Rosenberg

Corned beef hash is that most maligned of breakfast dishes. A truckstop classic, hash is all too often served up, oatmeal-style, with all the character of a bowl of gray mush.

Typically, even the corned beef itself is an after-thought, a bit of salty, meaty flavoring added to give the overcooked potatoes a bit of taste.

Fortunately, there is Dizzy’s, Park Slope’s self-described “finer diner,” where the corned beef hash lives up to its billing.

Mushy? Never. The corned beef isn’t merely omnipresent here, but instead of being cut up into tiny bits that compete for playing time with the potatoes, Dizzy’s shreads the brisket into long, stringy cords that retain the essential quality of corned beef.

Yes, there are bits of potatoes, but they never serve as anything except a silent partner to the chewy, crispy-on-the-outside corned beef.

Put two poached eggs on top of it and you’ll feel like you died and went to the Great Truckstop in the Sky — not the lousy one by the Interstate, mind you, but the one where the angels eat.

Dizzy’s [511 Ninth St., at Eighth Avenue in Park Slope, (718) 499-1966]. Hash is available as a main course at brunch, but as a side dish on weekdays.