In November, Bob Chobor opened Black Pearl
in a former turn-of-the-century firehouse on Union Street. It’s
a first-time venture into the restaurant world, and he’s made
some smart choices.
The first is realizing that while the area is rich in restaurants,
it lacks an upscale place with a diverse menu that is suitable
for all ages and every occasion – without edging into "family-style"
dining (otherwise known as a lot of mediocre stuff that your
kids will like and you won’t).
Black Pearl, which is not affiliated with the recently closed
eatery of the same name in Manhattan, offers a handsome setting
that is comfortable for someone who wants a drink or a bite at
the bar, and suits the needs of small and larger parties looking
for a relaxed yet special occasion setting for a meal.
Along one side of the golden room is a long, dramatically lit
mahogany bar. There’s a wood-burning oven in the rear of the
spacious dining area where a "pizzaiolo" turns out
nicely charred pies. "Chandeliers," made from long,
curved pieces of rough-hewn wood, add a rustic note to the surroundings.
If you sit at one of the roomy, cocoa leather booths, placed
on a raised tier, you’ll have an ideal spot to watch the goings
on about the room.
Alfredo Duarte (formerly of Da Silvano and Serafina in Manhattan)
is the executive chef. Duarte’s extensive menu leans toward Italy
with enough entrees to satisfy a yen for an American-style meal.
He aims for big flavors, with ample servings dramatically arranged
on huge plates.
The menu could be edited down somewhat, because dishes like "spicy
chicken chipotle" over pasta verges on Bennigan’s territory.
Also, some of the dishes wouldn’t suffer with fewer ingredients;
and the plating could be less showy. But these are minor issues
when everything that emerges from the kitchen is vibrantly seasoned
and carefully cooked.
We were wowed by the play of textures and temperatures in the
yellow fin tuna, one of the dishes in the "small plates"
roundup. The raw fish is sliced so thin, it’s almost sheer, and
its black pepper-crusted edge contrasts with the delicate flesh.
A tiny bundle of crisp watercress, dressed in a bright wasabi
and ginger dressing, adds a note of heat, and slices of creamy
avocado lend a lush, buttery edge to the works.
Two small crab cakes are marred by too much chopped red pepper
that over sweetens the fish. But an enormous scallop with brittle,
seared edges meets its match when paired with "mache"
(also known as field salad or lamb’s lettuce), lightly dressed
in citrus vinaigrette with a touch of sweetness.
Tender chunks of grilled calamari, accompanied by cherry tomato
halves, share the perfume of the wood smoke. The fish is served
over a salad of mixed greens and radicchio, slivers of grilled
red peppers and slices of avocado. Balsamic vinaigrette unifies
the ingredients.
There’s only one flaw in an otherwise well-executed entree of
housemade ravioli: a heavy hand with the sauces. But when the
sauces are as good as these, it’s a trivial complaint. One of
the ravioli is filled with lobster meat, and the light, wine-tinged
cream sauce that coats it adds to the pasta’s lushness. Nearly
transparent sheets of pasta, cut into a heart-shape, held a creamy,
spinach-flecked center and was complemented with a sunny tomato-vodka
sauce; a fresh tomato and basil topping crowned plump bundles
of pasta with a center of earthy wild mushrooms.
The oven-baked sea bass fillet is a showstopper. Duarte wraps
the fish in a layer of thin potato slices, sears it until its
coating is crisp and brown, then roasts the fish until its flesh
is like silk. He serves the wildly delicious dish over cubes
of fennel and leeks caramelized to a nutty, licorice-tinged hash.
A Pinot Noir glaze swirled about the plate adds a nuance of sweetness
that brings each element into focus. I’ve had similar versions
of the dish, but Duarte’s is stunning.
The dessert menu, executed by Mario Palacios (also from Serafina),
is a catch-all of classics. There’s a cheesecake, apple pie a
la mode, a panacotta with raspberry coulis, sorbets, ice creams
and, naturally, tiramisu.
Two renditions of traditional favorites are expertly prepared
and worth a try: chocolate souffle, otherwise known as a molten
chocolate cake, and a terrific creme brulee. The chocolate cake
has a tart note that you find in expensive cocoa bars and sports
a crisp surface and properly hot, viscous center. The brulee,
baked in a heart-shaped dish, has a tinge of lemon and a surface
that shatters when it’s touched with a spoon.
My only issue with the desserts concerns the plating: Too much
powdered sugar sprinkled around the dish over-sweetens the sauce
and fruit that accompany the main attraction.
Black Pearl (named for the rarity of the gem) is a jewel in the
crown of the Park Slope dining scene. In a neighborhood crowded
with good eateries, it’s special enough to stand out.
Black Pearl (833 Union St. between Sixth
and Seventh avenues in Park Slope) accepts American Express,
Discover, MasterCard and Visa. Entrees: $12-$28. The restaurant
serves dinner daily. Brunch is available on weekends, from 11
am to 3:30 pm. For reservations, call (718) 857-2004.
