Johannes Sanzin and Chelsea Altman have
struck again. The co-owners of Fort Greene’s Pequena, a small,
casual Mexican eatery, and Clinton Hill’s Maggie Brown, another
casual bar and American bistro, have joined with new partner
Dan DiMarti, to open their third Brooklyn restaurant, Olea. Their
newest addition to Fort Greene is a gorgeous, pan-Mediterranean
taverna and raw bar with a far-reaching menu that works.
Housed in the former A Table space, Olea, which opened in September,
features a moody room with dark wood beams running across the
ceiling. The floor is paved with terra cotta tiles, and instead
of fabric-covered banquettes, there are surprisingly comfortable
wooden benches along the walls.
However, it’s the windows that make lingering in Olea (Latin
for "olive") so rewarding. The entire front of the
space is floor-to-ceiling glass bordered with tiny sparkling
panes edged in a dusty jade color. The windows frame leafy Lafayette
Avenue, affording diners an ideal perch for people-watching.
In the kitchen is Gary Moran, late of Relish in Williamsburg,
and before that Manhattan’s Bouley and Citarella. Moran’s menu
rounds the Mediterranean, dipping into Greece, Italy and the
Middle East. He’ll mix Italian risotto with Greek cheese; toss
a salad with pomegranate juice-laced vinaigrette and sprinkle
pine nuts over the top; and pair a crisp chicken breast with
Moroccan vegetables, Israeli couscous and a dab of orange-cardamom
aioli (French mayonnaise sauce). Minor disappointments occur
during a meal, but even then, Moran should be applauded for taking
a few risks in the kitchen.
To begin, there’s falafel-crusted artichoke hearts. The falafel
coating is crisp but too heavy, making for less-than-delicate
eating. They’re accompanied by a rich Turkish eggplant salad
that is smoky, thanks to their charring on the grill, and given
a hint of sweet and sour flavoring with pomegranate molasses.
I can’t imagine tasting a better version of the salad than Moran’s.
On the plate are squares of pan-roasted "Halloumi,"
a slightly salty Greek cheese similar to feta, that takes on
a nutty taste when it’s roasted. There’s also a bit of tahini
sauce and sauteed spinach too; like most of what I sampled, all
the components harmonize, and the appearance of the dish looks
simple, not cluttered.
The batter used in the "piccolo fritto," a big plate
of fried calamari, mussels and lemon slices with fresh sage leaves,
could be lighter, but I’d order the dish again in a second. Have
you tried a fried mussel? They’re delectable. Especially when
they’re consumed with a chewy, tart slice of lemon and swiped
through "agrodolce," a sweet and sour syrup comprised
of reduced red wine vinegar, sugar and Turkish pepper sauce made
with red chili peppers.
Risotto can be a hit-or-miss affair, too often rendered into
gummy rice. At Olea, the grains are just right: tender yet not
mushy. Moran uses a rich, seafood stock as the dish’s base, then
strews the mix with sweet shrimp, and adds an unexpected touch:
bits of creamy feta cheese that melt into the grains, adding
a touch of nuttiness.
"Chermoula," the Moroccan blend of coriander, garlic,
paprika, lemon juice and olive oil, lends heat to a large filet
of moist, wild salmon, and forms a crisp crust around the fish.
Moran accompanies it with chunks of slow-roasted beets and fried
beet greens. The plate is given a bright, citrus note with slices
of roasted orange and a splash of coriander-caraway vinaigrette.
Although there are a lot of contrasting flavors, textures and
spices going on, the dish doesn’t careen out of control.
The dessert menu features five dishes that do a good – if not
wonderful – job of complementing the meal. The "due panna
cotta"- two ramekins of the custard – were each just right:
the vanilla was subtly enhanced with fresh rosemary and the chocolate,
topped with slivers of candied orange peel, was given a slightly
bitter note with a hint of saffron.
The problem with the roasted fruit with spice bread and creme
fraiche was its presentation. A large bowl is filled with pear
halves that sit atop spiced bread and are doused with creme fraiche.
It’s too clumsy looking and not exciting enough to work as dessert,
but I wouldn’t mind half of it served with coffee for breakfast.
I’m looking forward to sitting in Olea’s dining room and watching
the snow fall, the leaves turn green again, and come this summer,
sitting at one of the outdoor tables beside the eatery. If I’m
feeling really loving toward my companion, I may even share my
fried mussels.
Olea (171 Lafayette Ave. at Adelphi
Street in Fort Greene) accepts cash only. Entrees: $15-$18.50.
The restaurant serves dinner daily; breakfast and lunch from
Monday through Friday; and brunch on the weekends, from 10 am
to 4:30 pm. For reservations, call (718) 643-7003.
