One problem that Indian restaurants in
some Brooklyn neighborhoods face is diner apprehension – because
we’ve suffered through so many dumbed-down versions of authentic
Indian cooking we approach a meal expecting disappointment.
Rather than having our hopes dashed, some of us will travel to
restaurants far from our homes that cater to Indian clientele.
If it’s good enough for them, we reason it’s good enough for
us.
Deciding what to serve to a non-Indian population and how hot
to serve it is a conundrum for Indian restaurateurs. If chefs
dole out dishes that are suitable for their own palates, they
risk diners finding their cooking intolerably strong and spicy.
Star of India, on Fifth Avenue at President Street in Park Slope,
has established an admirable middle ground. Lovers of mild flavors
and subtle heat will be amply rewarded; those who prefer more
dynamic spicing will have options, too, as long as searing heat
isn’t a prerequisite.
The chef and owner of Star of India is Miah Tazu, who has cooked
in the kitchens of Joy India and Krian in Manhattan. His sons,
Khalil and Mizmijan, work the pleasant but nondescript dining
room.
They wait a respectful few minutes before inquiring, "Do
you like that?"
"Yes," was my answer to nearly everything.
I’d say, "Yes," again, to the samosas, which resemble
tiny tents made of pastry. In the wrong hands, these appetizers
can be as leaden as last week’s meatloaf. Tazu’s samosas are
light and crisp. The vegetarian samosa is filled with tender
potatoes, corn kernels and peas. Minced beef and peas make a
rewarding savory version. The samosas are delicately perfumed
with just enough garlic and ginger to enhance the ingredients.
With the appetizers comes a tray with three little dishes of
condiments: a bright green sauce of cilantro and garlic; a puddle
of fudge-colored tamarind puree; and chopped onions laced with
chilies. A little drizzle of the cilantro sauce (which I wished
were hotter), or a few of the spicy, chili-laced onions give
the samosas a little kick.
Among the first courses is a banana pakora that belongs on the
dessert menu. A couple of slices of banana become the center
of a large ball of sweet dough that is then deep-fried.
"Kids love them," Khalil said. I’m not surprised. The
pakora are sweet and heavy – like a Dunkin’ Donuts hole – not
terrible, just pointless.
I had better luck with the curries. Vegetable "shag,"
a stew of vegetables in a lightly spiced sauce, can be as bland
as baby food. Tazu’s mushroom "shag," a combination
of fresh mushrooms and spinach, is especially good. The mushrooms
were firm and plentiful; the spinach fresh and its taste did
not get lost in the sauce.
Fluffy basmati rice is served with the entrees – a practice that
should be adopted by many Indian restaurateurs who charge extra
for rice.
The shrimp curry was almost as good as the delicious ginger curry
made with lamb. The shrimp curry built heat slowly. First the
sweetness of tomatoes, then the warmth of ginger and cardamom,
and finally a little tingle of chili left a warm glow in my mouth.
Slivers of fresh ginger strewn atop tender chunks of lamb added
a sharp tang to the lamb curry’s bright, complex sauce.
The vindaloo, considered the spiciest of Indian dishes, was a
one-note affair. Order the chicken vindaloo, and you’ll receive
a dish that tastes like and resembles Campbell’s tomato soup
but with less personality. The sauce is hot, but the zing is
on the surface.
With the curries, I recommend a glass of the mango lassi. Made
from fresh mango and yogurt the drink is a sophisticated smoothie
with the same cooling effect as a dollop of sour cream on a bowl
of chili.
If you want wine, Star of India offers two by the glass: a decent
Shiraz, with enough oomph to stand up to the dishes’ spices,
and an acceptable Chardonnay. Several beers are available including
Kingfisher, Taj Mahal and Brooklyn Lager.
The star of the dessert roundup was the rice pudding. It was
soupier than diner renditions and a bit too sweet at first bite,
but its milky taste had a trace of almond flavoring and a few
ground almonds enhanced its texture.
"Gulab Jaman" is a deep-fried ball of sweet dough that
sits in a puddle of cardamom syrup. The dough works like a sponge
absorbing the syrup until it’s completely soaked through. It
looks like an odd concoction dreamed up by someone with experience
in other areas of the kitchen, but the dessert is more sophisticated
than you’d expect and not as sweet as it sounds.
Will you run out of Star of India crying, "Eureka! I’ve
eaten the best Indian food!"? I doubt it. But sometimes
finding an Indian restaurant close to home, where dishes are
made with care, is all you need.
Star of India (232 Fifth Ave. between
President and Carroll streets) accepts Visa, MasterCard, American
Express, Diner’s Club and Discover. Entrees: $8.50-$15. The restaurant
serves lunch and dinner seven days a week. Delivery is available
in surrounding neighborhoods. For information, call (718) 638-0555
or 638-5533.
