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CHILDREN OF THE CORN

CHILDREN
The Brooklyn Papers / Greg

Overlooking the Brooklyn waterfront in
DUMBO is an 8,000-square-foot space that has been the home to
several short-lived restaurants. Its latest occupant is Bubby’s,
the second outpost of the country-style restaurant that has been
dishing out meatloaf and fixings to TriBeCa families since 1990.




That much glass-walled, high-ceilinged space doesn’t conjure
up visions of a family restaurant, but Ron Silver, Bubby’s owner,
was determined to give his year-old eatery a small-restaurant
feel. As far as the ambience goes, he’s succeeded; however, the
menu of classic American dishes, developed by Silver and chef
Steven Rice, need fine-tuning.



The room is broken into three levels – a balcony with tables,
a center dining area, and a narrow, lower dining space – which
each have spectacular views of Manhattan’s skyline. The decor
is farmhouse chic with mismatched vintage enamel tables and assorted
chairs, pie safes topped with glass candy jars and big blackboards
where the specials of the day are written.



A long, winding bar covered in wood is meant to resemble a picket
fence. The "eat with the farmers" vibe has been around
so long, diners recall other restaurants with similar conceits
before they remember (if they remember) eating Grandma Annie’s
apple pie with the kinfolk.



Speaking of kinfolk, expect to eat with a lot of children when
you visit. One evening there was a birthday party winding down
with a bunch of cranky, over-stimulated kids and mothers in overalls.
At another table, a tired baby whined non-stop while her mom
serenely gobbled pie, and adorable Max turned over a chair inches
from my foot.



If you’re the parent of a young child, the hubbub won’t faze
you. Diners without children, or parents who have tucked this
particular nightmare away, may wonder if they’ve stumbled into
kiddy hell. If you prefer an adult dining experience (and let’s
face it, who doesn’t?), eat later in the evening when the under
10 demographic is fast asleep.



Silver and Rice offer dishes our Bubbys served. (Mine is represented
by the matzo ball soup and potato salad, or "solid,"
my nana’s pronunciation, a fitting description of her cooking.)
All the muffins, breads, jams and even mustard are house-made,
as are their famous pies and ice cream. Some of the cooking is
very good; other dishes are less so.



A constant problem – serving food at inappropriate temperatures
– plagued the meal from start to finish.



A spring pea soup with mint and yogurt sounded lovely, but was
served lukewarm when it should have been chilled. And it was
watery. Avoid it.



Heavy buttermilk biscuits are served warm in a basket – always
a treat.



An appetizer portion of St. Louis barbecued ribs with a mild
dry rub were lusciously fatty and sides of smoky sauce, and another
of vinegar, lent the meat sharp tang.



Moist buttermilk fried chicken with a crispy coating needed salt
badly. Its plate-mates – macaroni and cheese served in a little
ramekin with nicely browned crust and asparagus left tender and
charred from their few moments on the grill – can’t be faulted.
A big heap of moist, pulled pork left a vinegar-tinged tingle
in the mouth. If your mama served collard greens, you’ll want
to pass on Bubby’s limp, under-seasoned side dish.



The pies were a disappointment, a fact made especially ironic
since that is what Bubby’s is known for. The fruit in my sour
cherry pie was fine – firm and just sweet enough – but the top
of its buttery crust rested limply over the filling and the bottom
was clammy.



I doubt the apple pie was ever much to brag about. Too much flour
lent the filling a chalky taste, and more cinnamon and a bit
of lemon would have brightened its flavor. Warming both desserts
as we requested, instead of barely warm, would have boosted their
taste.



And, if you know something is terrible, like the cup of bitter,
lukewarm decaf that the waiter set in front of me before saying,
"Let me know if this is OK," then don’t bring it to
the table.



There’s so much about Bubby’s to appreciate. The comfortable
space offers local DUMBO families, and residents of nearby Brooklyn
Heights, a refuge where they can eat comfortably. For Bubby’s
to entice the childless though, the preparations need to be tweaked,
the service fine-tuned and, for Pete’s sake, serve the coffee
hot.



Bubby’s Brooklyn (1 Main St. between Water and Plymouth streets
in DUMBO) accepts Diner’s Club, Discover, MasterCard and Visa.
Entrees: $8.95-$19.95. The restaurant serves lunch and dinner
seven days a week; brunch is served Saturdays and Sundays from
10 am to 4 pm. Children under 8 eat free on Sunday evenings.
For reservations, call (718) 222-0666.



On Sept. 12, Bubby’s and the Brooklyn Bridge Park Conservancy
will host the first annual Pie Social. Anyone with a rolling
pin and a favorite recipe can enter. Show up at noon at Brooklyn
Bridge Park (Main Street between Water and Plymouth streets)
with two home baked pies – sweet or savory – cobblers or crisps
that are ready to share. The entry fee is $10 (five tasting tickets
are included). For non-bakers, the fee is $20 for five tickets,
or the family special, $50 for 15 tickets. Applications can be
picked up in person at Bubby’s or downloaded at www.brooklynbridgepark.org.
For more information, call Christina, at Bubby’s Tribeca, at
(212) 219-0666 or Samara, at the Conservancy, at (718) 802-0603.