In these health-conscious times – times
when some people clutch their chests in a psychosomatically induced
coronary at the mere mention of Peter Luger – many people avoid
French cuisine because they equate it with ultra-rich sauces
and desserts.
Of those people who throw caution to the wind and live dangerously
by occasionally ingesting butter and cream, many still stay away
because they think French food means spending beaucoup bucks.
Well, luckily for Brooklynites, there’s a new French restaurant
in Fort Greene that dispels both those foolish ideas.
Inconspicuously located on DeKalb Avenue between Adelphi Street
and Clermont Avenue, in a part of Brooklyn that is fast becoming
a foodie’s paradise, you’ll find Loulou, one of the nicest little
French restaurants this side of the East River, if not the Atlantic.
It may be hard for some to imagine, but the food at Loulou is
delicious French cuisine that isn’t smothered in butter or cream.
And to fatten the deal (no pun intended), the prices are reasonable.
Loulou was opened in November by the husband-and-wife team of
William and Christine Snell. William is in charge of the food,
a job for which he is more than qualified, having served as chef
in such fine Manhattan establishments as the City Wine and Cigar
Company and the Tribeca Grill.
Christine, an ex-event planner, is in charge of everything else,
which may be a lot, but she seems to make it look like the place
runs itself.
Just walking into the restaurant is like being instantly transported
across the ocean to a little fishing cottage on the northwestern
coast of France. The rustic tables and exposed brick and wood
beams exude warmth, making Loulou a cozy and quaint place in
which to dine.
In addition, the restaurant has outside seating in a lovely garden
out back. The garden, paved with small stones and simply landscaped
with plants and a fountain, has a very European feel. When weather
permits, diners are invited to enjoy their meals al fresco, although
with only six or eight tables, that fills up quickly.
But don’t let all this talk about ambience and decor distract
you from what is truly exceptional about Loulou: the food. Chef
Snell’s menu focuses on seafood, drawing inspiration from Christine’s
home region of Brittany. Unlike many modern chefs who strive
towards complexity, Snell keeps his dishes simple, using fewer
ingredients, allowing the flavors of the fresh fish and seafood
to come through. When there are sauces, they are served on the
plate or in small amounts, so that they don’t overwhelm.
The menu at Loulou changes with the seasons, and most of the
opening dishes (appetizers are priced from $6 to $11) on the
current menu, such as the shrimp and crab crepe with a cornichons
remoulade, are perfect for summer, as they are served cold or
at room temperature. The crepe appeared similar to a Vietnamese
summer roll, but the taste was far more refined: chunks of chilled
shrimp and rock crab, mixed with crisp lettuce and tomato, wrapped
in a paper-thin pancake and topped with a dollop of a light,
mustard sauce. Very refreshing.
The seafood Napoleon, layers of raw sashimi-grade tuna and fresh
crab, crowned with a hefty portion of ossetra caviar and served
on a bed of lettuce, was magnificent. Very little seasoning,
just a small amount of homemade mayonnaise with the crab, allowed
plenty of space for the true flavors of the ingredients to come
out. The lobster terrine, accompanied with cornichons, artichoke
hearts and Dijon mustard, was also exceptional. The consistency
was so airy, and it had such a subtle lobster flavor, I felt
as if I was savoring the soft, sweet foam of the ocean.
When it came time for the main course (entrees priced $12-20),
seafood continued to be the star with such classics as bouillabaisse
and moules frites (mussels with French fries). Chef Snell
did not fail to impress with his pan-sauteed halibut and his
grilled black sea bass. The halibut was served amandine style,
with a light-brown crust that tasted of butter and lemon and
slivers of almond that added a satisfying crunch in contrast
to the firm yet tender fish.
The sea bass was grilled and served whole (if you are scared
of the bones, ask your waiter to debone the fish and remove the
head and tail) with garlic mashed potatoes and wilted spinach,
all atop an amazing sauce made from fresh langoustine. Simply
wonderful.
And don’t worry if you aren’t a seafood lover, because Chef Snell
also has chicken, lamb and steak on the menu, as well as a few
vegetarian choices.
After so much incredible food, my guest and I weren’t sure we
had room for dessert, but when the options were presented, there
was no way we could refuse. The rhubarb tart was just that, tart
rhubarb inside flaky phyllo pastry, sweetened with brown sugar
and cinnamon and accompanied with vanilla ice cream and a light
caramel sauce.
If you think that sounds good, wait until you hear about the
chocolate-banana crepe. It was served hot, filled with chocolate-hazelnut
spread and big chunks of sweet banana, and topped with a hot
chocolate sauce and ice cream. Believe me, it tastes even better
than it sounds.
Everything at Loulou was immaculately prepared and absolutely
delicious. Lucky for us, it’s in Brooklyn, because if this place
were in Manhattan, neither you nor I would ever get a table.
Loulou [222 DeKalb Ave. between Adelphi
Street and Clermont Avenue in Fort Greene] accepts all major
credit cards. Closed Tuesdays. For more information, call (718)
246-0633.
