Making a visit to Cono and Son’s Opescatore
in Williamsburg is like taking a pleasurable trip back through
time to Little Italy circa 1950.
Those sepia-toned pictures – of kids playing handball on quiet
side streets, quaint pasticcerias with windows boasting impossibly
frilly, decadent sweets and tables populated with men sipping
espressos while their cigarettes smolder – suddenly transform
into living color when you’re heading for Ainslie Street and
Graham Avenue.
You can’t miss this corner, also named Via S. Cono for the restaurant,
which has been in Williamsburg for 19 years, but has been in
business for 45 years in several locations. As you enter Cono’s,
you’re greeted with a window of gaily colored platters brimming
with the makings of heart-stopping hot and cold antipasto combinations.
There’s a small bar whose every seat is taken by men with dark,
slicked-back hair.
Cono’s has an elegant, spacious dining room made to seem more
intimate with its lowered ceiling. The formally dressed waitstaff
sees to all of those little extras: the tented linen napkins,
the surprising scent of fresh flowers on every table and, most
importantly, gracious service. (Cono’s even has its own – albeit
small – parking lot behind the restaurant.)
The extensive Italian menu offering dozens of fish dishes as
well as chicken, veal, steaks and more is matched by an equally
lengthy wine list that offers everything from affordable wines
by the glass to $250 Super Tuscans. We shared the room with young
families, dolled up seniors on double dates and romantic dates
for two.
We swooned over Chef Cono Natale’s cold antipasto platter, scallops
marinara over linguine and, for dessert, zabaglione.
The cold antipasto was akin to the Italian version of dim sum
in Chinese restaurants – a sampling of bite-size delights. We
were treated to garlicky string beans, grilled red peppers, eggplant
and zucchini, broccoli, various cheeses ranging from a creamy
fresh mozzarella to a solid, pungent Parmigiano Reggiano and
salami.
Every last bite was fresh, delicious and paired perfectly with
its platter partners. This extravaganza was reminiscent of my
favorite meals while on my honeymoon in Sicily. In retrospect,
it seems my wave of nostalgia hindered my ability to control
myself: my husband and I sopped up every last bit of the remaining
olive oil-rich crumbs on our plates with the fresh-baked bread.
A scrumptious, sweet marinara sauce was the perfect complement
for my entree – a substantial portion of scallops tossed with
linguini and topped with freshly shaved Parmesan cheese. (The
linguine tasted house-made, but according to the waiter, I was
fooled by the above-par flavor.)
Next time, we’re delving into the tornido di pesci for two, a
pile of clams, shrimp, scallops, calamari, mussels, whiting and
filet of sole sauteed in a wine and tomato sauce and served with
rice.
The only dish shy of a bull’s eye was the chicken alla Cono,
served with roasted potatoes, mushrooms and red peppers. The
dish was served piping hot and a bit dry.
After this substantial feast, a light dessert was in order and
Cono’s did not disappoint. Their light-as-air zabaglione is a
frothy, warm, winey mixture of egg yolks, sugar and Marsala wine
tossed with quartered strawberries. Served in a wide-mouthed
wineglass, the orange-yellow concoction, topped with a sprig
of mint, tasted as refreshing at it looked.
The crunchy cannoli, stuffed with chocolate chip ricotta and
mascarpone cheese filling, and liberally laced with cinnamon,
was another winner.
Cono’s Opescatore is an old-fashioned classic. It’s the place
to go any time you wish to make another cherished memory of another
authentic Italian meal packed with rich flavor.
Cono & Son’s Opescatore Restaurant
is located at 301 Graham Ave. at Ainslie Street. Entrees: $9.95-$29.95.
Tuesdays are Wine Lover’s Night and any bottled wine on the list
is half-price. The restaurant accepts Visa, MasterCard, American
Express and Diners Club. For reservations or takeout, call (718)
388-0168.
