If I were a real estate agent, I’d describe
Pete’s Downtown as possessing "spectacular views of the
Brooklyn Bridge and the East River." I’d mention its spot
on a cobblestone street opposite the River Cafe. I’d point out
the expansive walls of glass, and its roomy, tin-ceilinged dining
room.
And there’s its history: Pete’s has been in operation in the
Fulton Ferry area since 1894.
The current proprietor is Peter Thristino, grandson of Pete,
who bought the restaurant in the 1930s. Thristino has been at
the Italian-American eatery’s helm for 12 years, overseeing its
day-to-day operations, as well as its kitchen.
It’s an Old World-style restaurant on the order of "The
Sopranos." Think king-sized portions of heavily sauced food.
Think large groups of men wearing gold chains and making deals
on their cellphones. Think a menu that, with the exception of
a warm goat cheese salad, has remained consistent for the last
20 years.
That last comment isn’t a criticism when it’s applied to Pete’s.
The cuisine is meant to satisfy tourists and couples who chose
Pete’s for its amazing view and demand little more from the kitchen
than reliable shrimp scampi.
Most of the food at Pete’s is better than reliable. He does a
fine job with baked clams "origanata." The mollusks
in each little shell are plump and fresh; the breadcrumbs are
light and crisp. His rolled eggplant is just right, too. Strips
of the vegetables are lightly breaded and fried, then filled
with well-seasoned ricotta cheese. But several of the dishes
needed salt, and over-saucing marred more than one dish.
One half portion of the rigatoni portobello is plenty for one
person. There are satisfying, meaty slices of portobello mushrooms,
chunks of smoked mozzarella and pleasingly salty prosciutto to
savor. But there’s too much of a pungent, rich white wine-laced
brown sauce, so a little of this otherwise nicely executed pasta
goes a long way.
A little sauce, especially a nicely seasoned one made with marsala
wine and strewn with mushrooms, prosciutto and sun-dried tomatoes,
would make a welcome partner to thin slices of slightly overcooked
veal in the "veal Pasqualina." Instead, it was poured
heavily over the meat, masking its delicate flavor.
"Chicken scarpariello," a mix of boneless chicken breast
pieces and sweet sausage chunks suffered from a sloppy dump-and-run
presentation. When too many brown ingredients are heaped on a
plate – and, again, are over-sauced – it doesn’t make for visually
enticing eating. Neither does dull sausage.
One of the desserts is a standout: the bread pudding. It’s served
in one warm, thick slice of just-sweet-enough, just-dense-enough
pudding. A bit of caramel is drizzled over the top, and it’s
crowned with a fluff of whipped cream.
The scene outside the windows of the main dining room, with boats
cruising by, is nearly as romantic as the River Cafe’s view.
If Old World-style Italian ambiance and postcard-worthy scenery
are high on your list, Pete’s Downtown is a piece of real estate
worth visiting.
Pete’s Downtown (2 Water St. at Old
Fulton Street in DUMBO) accepts American Express, Diners Club,
Discover, MasterCard and Visa. Entrees: $18-$26. A three-course,
$20.06 prix fixe lunch is available Tuesday through Friday. The
restaurant serves lunch Tuesday through Friday and dinner Tuesday
through Sunday. Closed Mondays. For reservations, call (718)
858-3510.
