Holy mole! New Mexican joint on Smith Street is great • Brooklyn Paper

Holy mole! New Mexican joint on Smith Street is great

The enchiladas are great at 213, the new Mexican restaurant on Smith Street.
The Brooklyn Paper / Andy Campbell

Look, the Borough of Kings can be shoddy with its Mexican food.

So we had trepidations after entering the new 213 Mexican restaurant on Smith Street. We ordered the chicken enchiladas fully expecting some tasteless, bland concoction of meat and sauce that tends to work better as a hangover cure than an attempt at fine dining.

But that notion was swiftly upended as soon as fork hit mouth: not only can you actually taste the meat, but each bite offers flavors that owner Francisco Acatitla brought straight from his native Mexico City.

The zest in the red mole sauce is a guilty pleasure. It’s sweet and spicy, yet not overbearing — a delicious complement to an array of cheeses, juicy chicken and guacamole inside.

It’s a plate-licker, folks. It’s filling, the price is right ($8) and it’s backed up by a passionate staff that has wiped away the bad memories from the spot’s former tenant, El Pitayo, which was nothing but average.

Order a refreshing, citrus Tanteo margarita with real blue agave as a meal-capper, and you’ll officially be in on Brooklyn’s newest and best Mexican secret.

213 Mexican [213 Smith St. between Baltic and Butler streets in Boerum Hill, (718) 625-2616].

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