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JACQUES OF ALL TRADES

JACQUES OF ALL
The Brooklyn Papers / Aaron Greenhood

In 2002, a restaurant
opened in Williamsburg called La Brunette. It was short lived
– but memorable – thanks to chef Jacques Gautier’s vibrant, French-Caribbean
cooking. After he left the eatery, Gautier worked in South American
kitchens and vineyards, as well as eateries closer to home like
Zoe in SoHo and the Brick Oven Gallery in Williamsburg.



Now he has his own place in Park Slope: Palo Santo.



Open since August, Palo Santo (named for a South American evergreen
referred to as "the tree of life") features a menu
that is "eclectic Latin," says Gautier.



"We’re using mostly local, greenmarket ingredients – whatever
is fresh at the market that day – as well as tropical imports,"
he says.



Several dishes on the small roundup change daily, so locals can
drop in often and enjoy something new. Ceviche "misto,"
with shellfish, fresh lime juice and chilies, makes a great starter.
An entree of roasted duck breast with mole sauce served with
a duck-filled tamale is ideal on a cool evening; tamarind creme
brulee finishes the meal in style.



As soon as the liquor license is granted, he’ll pour only South
American wines.



The restaurant’s interior incorporates salvaged wood from neighborhood
demolition that Gautier used to build chairs, tables and panel
some of the walls. Continuing with the sourcing locally theme,
he commissioned mosaic work, an intricate steel rail that frames
an outdoor staircase, and a fountain by Brooklyn-based artisans.




Palo Santo (652 Union St. between Fourth and Fifth avenues in
Park Slope) accepts cash only. Entrees: $15-$26. Breakfast and
lunch is served Monday through Friday. Dinner is available Wednesday
through Sunday. Brunch is served from 10 am to 4 pm on weekends.
Closed Mondays. For more information, call (718) 636-6311.