The woman at the counter was a regular
at Helios, a Greek restaurant masquerading as a coffee shop in
Park Slope. That’s probably why, after tasting her appetizer,
she was comfortable saying, "This is the best f**king sausage
I’ve ever had," a comment that elicited a roar of laughter
from co-owner Aristos Tzammos.
Tzammos is used to surprised diners. The cafe he opened as Elio’s
with partner Pete Lekkas (co-owner of Elia in Bay Ridge) in July,
and renamed Helios in February (due to a conflict with a long
established Elio’s in Manhattan), is often mistaken for a standard
burger and sandwich place.
A quick glance into the eatery during the day, where a long tiled
counter is visible from the street, would confirm the notion.
There are diner-style sandwiches, a few salads, and hamburgers
on the menu, too. But a closer inspection of the decor and dishes
reveals the cafe’s sophisticated flip side.
The corner spot off Sixth Avenue is ringed with tall windows;
its walls are a deep persimmon; the tables are covered with burgundy
clothes; and the silverware is heavier than you’d expect to find
in a casual place.
And Tzammos insists on fresh flowers. At the door is a deep blue
pot filled with magenta azaleas, and the dark tiled counter is
topped with watering cans that hold fragrant deep pink and white
peonies. Looking inside the windows at night, the restaurant
could be mistaken for a candlelit flower shop.
After 5 pm, meze, the Greek form of tapas, are available. The
recipes Tzammos employs for the hors d’oeuvres and entrees are
based on his grandmother Anna’s cooking.
"She kept things simple, so I keep things simple,"
he says. "She believed that with great ingredients you don’t
need a lot of frills. I use great products, too."
His boast is justified. Order an assortment of three homemade
spreads, and each will taste clean and lightly seasoned with
fresh herbs. The eggplant dip has the zing of lemon and the astringency
of fresh parsley. The yogurt used for the cucumber dip is as
thick as sour cream, fragrant with fresh mint and encircled with
deep green extra virgin olive oil. And a spread made with feta
and red pepper is creamy with just a touch of salt. All are delicious
heaped atop triangles of warm pita bread.
There are two Greek wines – one white and one red – on the menu;
both are acceptable with the dishes. A selection of eight international
beers makes better partners.
About that sausage: I’ve had too many great sausages to second
the counter-patron’s praise, but I will say the "loukaniko,"
made of pork seasoned with oregano, black pepper and orange peel,
is up there with the best.
Helios’s souvlaki is made fresh, not hacked from a rotating mound
of compressed meat. The lamb sandwich is rare and well spiced.
Slices of tomatoes are ripe and crisp while red onion adds crunch.
Order the lamb as a souvlaki platter, and the juicy cubes of
meat will arrive atop buttery rice mixed with parsley and served
with a little dish of the lush yogurt.
The pieces of chicken in the "kota lemonati," taste
of tart citrus juice and oregano. Only Bell & Evan’s birds
are used and the difference in that poultry and others is pronounced.
Like the lamb, the meat is served with rice.
Orders for Helios’s burgers stream in via telephone faster than
the deliveryman can deposit them. The Angus beef patties are
big but not cumbersome and served on a house-made brioche roll
that isn’t so dense it obscures the meat. Order it medium rare,
and it’s served as requested. Lift it to your mouth and juice
will run down your hand. The accompanying fries are freshly cut,
salty and sprinkled with oregano.
The dessert menu features cakes and tarts that are better than
most of the overwrought finales I’ve encountered lately. There’s
a buttery, light, apple crumb tart fragrant with nutmeg. A slice
of almond tart with a thin crown of raspberry jam was sweet but
not cloying, with a brittle, buttery crust. Tzammos uses only
organically grown beans for his rich, dark coffee. Request a
cup in the evening, and a French press, ready to be poured, will
be delivered to the table.
Tzammos isn’t trying to put a spin on Greek cuisine. He wants
to serve dishes the way his grandmother liked them: treating
fresh, seasonal ingredients without a lot of fanfare so their
goodness can shine through. It’s a classic concept that more
ambitious chefs sometimes forget.
Helios (82 Sixth Ave. at St. Marks Avenue
in Park Slope) accepts cash only. Entrees: $11-$15. Serves lunch
and dinner daily. Brunch is available all day on the weekends.
For information, call (718) 783-0033.